I like the damn hoof shoes. Sue me. Now, this admission does not come lightly. I’ve endured the five stages of grief, mourning the distaste I held for these shoes and finally accepting the Maison Margiela Tabis as a trend I quite adore.
But how did we get here? Where did the Maison Margiela Tabi shoe even start?
The origin story of these iconic shoes start when designer Martin Margiela debuted the avant-garde, split-toe shoe at his 1988 runway show. Although this was the first time the silhouette entered the modern fashion conversation, its origins date back to the 15th-century Japanese tabi socks. While the split-toe silhouette creates balance and grip, that is merely coincidental; its initial goal was a holistic strategy that promoted a clear mind through the separation of the big toe.
In 1922, brothers Tokujiro and Shojiro Ishibashi transitioned the shoe to become jika-tabi, the same classic silhouette with rubber soles for outdoor wear. These allowed for more traction, and were used in construction and even war.
The silhouette even made its Boston Marathon debut in 1951, when runner Shigeki Tanaka won the marathon wearing tabi-style shoes. Concurrently, 2 years later, Onitsuka released the Marathon Tabi, made to endure exercises demanding speed and endurance.
However, it was in 1988 that Margiela created an entirely new conversation around the style. In their Spring/Summer 1989 show, models, who had their faces covered with nylon, were splattered with red paint as they walked across a white cotton runway, leaving behind signature stark red hoof prints. This show crafted the synonymous association that Maison Margiela and the tabi silhouette have today.
Today, the silhouette is found in hundreds of styles, spanning seasons, brands, and prices. The split-toe design can be found as flats, boots, Mary Janes, and sneakers, appealing to a wide range of audiences. Tabi boots can be found on Temu for just $21.85 or can be bought from Maison Margiela at $1,490.
Tabis fit into the trend of “ugly shoes” being the most wanted shoe in your closet. Whether the goal is practicality, comfort, personal expression or individuality, shoes are often the first place we look when daring to make an out-of-the-box fashion choice. With plain jeans or a basic white tee, these tabis let wearers look more avant-garde in their daily life, finely toggling the boundaries of their comfort zone.
My own experience with tabis has been a fervent emotional rollercoaster (well, as emotional as one can be when it comes to opinions on shoes). I remember when I first saw them on the streets of New York City a couple of years ago, appalled by their animal-like nature. However, as the shoes began popping up more often and in different styles, they started to grow on me.
Call me gullible or a pushover, but I now spend hours on the hunt for Tabi boots, as I await the perfect pair to add to my collection!
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