Historically, fur has been a controversial topic on fashion runways. Environmental organisations have protested the inhumane practice of commercial fur farming for decades, urging fashion designers to abandon their unethical approach and embrace more eco-friendly alternatives.
London Fashion Week became the first major fashion week to ban fur from its runways in 2018, with Copenhagen, Berlin, Amsterdam, Helsinki, Stockholm and Melbourne gradually following suit. NYFW remained fur-inclusive until December 2025, when the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) declared the banning of animal fur from all NYFW events, starting September 2026.
The CFDA’s policy specifically prohibits farmed or trapped fur, including mink and fox, but excludes fur that is sourced through Indigenous subsistence hunting. The move marks a significant development in the relationship between animal welfare and one of the world’s major global fashion events.
But the controversy surrounding animal-derived materials does not stop with fur. Â During 2026 NYFW, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) took to the catwalk with designer brand COS to protest the exploitation of sheep for wool. The protest calls on designers to acknowledge animal welfare across all areas of the industry, rather than limiting the conversation to fur alone.
PETA’s previous protests exposing animal abuse within the fashion industry have led to brands such as Armani and Burberry choosing to ban fur from their runways, demonstrating how applying public pressure can instigate positive change. COS is owned by H&M and has been exposed for misleadingly claiming that its wool is “responsibly” sourced. Protesters walked the catwalk along with COS models, holding signs pointing to the brands treatment of sheep for wool. Some protesters were physically restrained by CFDA president Steven Kolb, who later admitted that his actions were “inappropriate”.
The People Behind Fashion’s Fur-Free Future.
Among the individuals aiming to reform the industry’s approach to animal welfare is PJ Smith, a Fashion Policy Director for Humane World for Animals. PJ has helped spark the sustainable fashion revolution through his collaborations with major designers such as Gucci, Prada and Chanel, shifting their attitudes regarding the industry’s treatment of animals.
PJ played a role in NYFW’s shift away from celebrating fur on its runways, helping to set a new standard for animal welfare at all future New York runways. His work with designer brands reflects the ever-increasing need for more ethical practices that can help to build sustainable companies that do not sacrifice animal welfare for their creative vision.
What’s Next For Fur?
As designer brands are forced to explore more animal-friendly routes when curating their collections, a new market is emerging within the fashion industry.
Companies must now think innovatively about how they can create greener alternatives. The market gap is being filled with bio-fur start-ups which aim to replace animal fur with more sustainable materials. Designers are using plant-based materials such as materials derived from nettle, corn sugars and hemp, instead of conventional fur.
Animal welfare has become a catalyst for material innovation, encouraging designers to consider longevity as well as design. As fashion continues to move away from traditional fur, the question is no longer simply what designers will remove from their collections, but what they will create to replace it.
Sources:
admin. “New York Fashion Week’s Fur Ban: What Changed in 2026 and What Replaces It.” Notordinaryblogger, 10 Sept. 2026, https://notordinaryblogger.com/nyfw-fur-ban-2026/. Accessed 19 Sept. 2026.
AFP. Ralph Lauren Opens Fur-Free New York Fashion Week. 2026, https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/other/ralph-lauren-opens-fur-free-new-york-fashion-week/ar-AA2bU9Fa?ocid=BingNewsSerp.
Halie LeSavage. “Fur Is Officially Banned at New York Fashion Week.” Marie Claire, 3 Dec. 2025, https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/fur-ban-new-york-fashion-week. Accessed 19 Sept. 2026.
Hernon, Alison. “Fashion Policy Director for Humane World for Animals, PJ Smith Is Changing Fashion From the Inside Out.” PhotoBook Magazine, 25 May 2026, https://www.photobookmagazine.com/features/pj-smith-is-changing-fashion-from-the-inside-out. Accessed 19 Sept. 2026.
OSF Team. “PETA Protest Disrupts COS NYFW Show as CFDA Chief Physically Restrains Activists – Oui Speak Fashion.” Oui Speak Fashion (OSF)®, 14 Sept. 2026, https://ouispeakfashion.com/cos-nyfw-peta-wool-protest/. Accessed 19 Sept. 2026.
PETA Staff. “I Was Assaulted at New York Fashion Week for Speaking up for Sheep.” PETA, 16 Sept. 2026, https://www.peta.org/news/wool-protest-nyfw/. Accessed 19 Sept. 2026.