Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026, which took place from February 24 to March 2, was not your typical fashion event. With several new creative directors debuting their visions at major brands, this event marks a new chapter for the industry.
Three shows in particular dominated the conversation: Gucci, Fendi and Marni. All three brands introduced new creative leadership this season, which meant the stakes were high and the internet was paying very close attention.
And, as expected, social media had plenty to say.
Gucci: The show everyone was talking about
If there was one show people couldn’t stop talking about, it was Gucci. This season marked Demna’s first runway show as the brand’s creative director, making it one of the most anticipated moments of the entire week. Demna is known for his provocative, culture-shifting work at brands like Balenciaga, so everyone was curious about how he would reinterpret Gucci. His debut leaned heavily into sensuality and bold silhouettes, with ultra-tight dresses, sheer fabrics and pieces that referenced the brand’s famously daring Tom Ford era. The show also had its share of viral moments. Kate Moss closed the runway in a glittering gown with a visible Gucci-branded thong, which quickly made its way across fashion Instagram and TikTok. Reactions online were mixed, and honestly, that’s what made it interesting. Some people loved the dramatic return to sexier, risk-taking fashion. Others felt it was controversial or overly provocative. But whether people loved it or hated it, I think almost everyone can agree on one thing: it got people talking.
Personally, I think that kind of reaction is exactly what Gucci needed. Luxury brands today compete not just on design but also on cultural relevance, and Demna clearly understands how to create moments people remember. Even if the collection felt controversial to some viewers, it re-energized the conversation around Gucci and signaled that the brand is willing to take creative risks again.
Fendi: a more emotional direction
Another notable debut this season came from Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, which brought a noticeably different tone to Milan Fashion Week. While Gucci leaned into spectacle, Fendi’s collection felt more reflective and rooted in the house’s history. Chiuri referenced the legacy of the five Fendi sisters who built the brand, emphasizing craftsmanship and storytelling rather than dramatic runway theatrics. The collection featured structured tailoring, flowing skirts, soft neutral tones and intricate details that highlighted the brand’s technical skill. The show also centered around the phrase “Less I, More Us,” which emphasized collaboration and collective creativity rather than the idea of a single designer dominating the narrative. Compared to Gucci’s viral spectacle, Fendi’s show generated quieter but largely positive reactions online, with many commentators praising its elegance and thoughtful connection to heritage.
From my perspective, Fendi’s direction felt refreshing in a different way. Instead of trying to chase viral moments, the collection focused on building a long-term identity for the brand. In a fashion environment that often prioritizes instant reactions, there’s something very compelling about a show that slows down and lets craftsmanship and storytelling take center stage.
Marni: Bringing the brand back to real life
The third major debut came from Belgian designer Meryll Rogge at Marni, another moment that fashion insiders were watching closely. Rogge’s approach to the brand focused on reconnecting with Marni’s original spirit, playful, artistic and slightly unconventional. Her collection featured layered textures, unexpected color combinations, oversized silhouettes and statement jewelry that felt expressive but still wearable. Unlike some runway collections that prioritize theatricality over practicality, Rogge emphasized clothing that could exist beyond the runway and into everyday life. Many of the looks balanced creativity with functionality, blending Marni’s signature eccentricity with a sense of realism. On social media, reactions were largely positive, with viewers appreciating the return to the brand’s quirky identity and the way the collection felt grounded while still visually interesting.
Personally, Marni’s show stood out because it felt authentic to the brand rather than trying to reinvent it completely. Rogge didn’t seem interested in creating shock value or chasing trends; instead, she focused on refining what Marni already does well. In an industry that often pushes designers to dramatically overhaul brands, that kind of thoughtful evolution felt both confident and refreshing.
Other Standout shows
Of course, Milan Fashion Week wasn’t only about debuts. Established houses also delivered strong collections. Ferragamo, under designer Maximilian Davis, presented a collection centered on elegant tailoring and rich textures, with silky dresses and dramatic coats that balanced old-world glamour with modern minimalism. Meanwhile, brands like Prada, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Armani continued refining their identities, showing how heritage houses can evolve without completely reinventing themselves every season. Together, these shows created a season that felt layered: part reinvention, part continuation.
What this season means for fashion going forward
If there was one theme that defined Milan this year, it was transition. Between creative director shake-ups and evolving consumer tastes, many luxury houses are clearly trying to figure out their next chapter. Some brands are leaning into bold, viral moments. Others are doubling down on heritage and craftsmanship. What’s interesting is that both approaches seem to be happening at the same time. And that’s what made this season of Milan Fashion Week so fascinating to watch. It wasn’t just about trends; it was about identity.
Brands were asking big questions: “What does luxury mean today?” “Who is it for?” and “How do you stay culturally relevant without losing your history?”
Fashion rarely answers those questions overnight. But if Milan Fashion Week proved anything this season, it’s that the industry is actively searching for those answers, and is doing it very publicly. And honestly, that’s what makes watching fashion right now so exciting.