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SLU | Culture

How Exclusivity Made Brandy Melville into the Empire it is Today

Mary Sharp Student Contributor, Saint Louis University
This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at SLU chapter and does not reflect the views of Her Campus.

In an era where retailers compete for attention via influencer partnerships and social media campaigns, one brand has achieved success by doing the opposite. Brandy Melville, a young-adult-targeted fashion company, has cultivated a devoted following through a distinct lack of traditional marketing. Yet beneath this apparent disregard is a complex narrative: one that reveals how even the most seemingly unyielding brands bend to market pressures in their own way. 

Brandy Melville has avoided nearly every conventional marketing tactic, such as flashy campaigns, official advertisements, brand collaborations and promotional discounts. This approach creates what is called “manufactured scarcity” of the brand’s voice. By refusing to seek traction outright, the brand positions itself as one that does not need to request visibility, implying it is already secure in the market. 

The company’s physical and digital presence reinforces the aesthetic of effortlessness. Through minimalistic photography and curated store layouts, Brandy Melville fosters an image of approachability and relatability for its (primarily) younger audience. Additionally, the company’s employees are often both the models and the photographers, blurring the line between consumer and brand ambassador while also lowering costs. 

This strategy has enabled Brandy Melville to be for Gen-Z what Abercrombie & Fitch was for millennials, but with a critical difference: it achieved this status largely through word-of-mouth and social media virality rather than traditional advertising. 

The brand’s mystique goes beyond its marketing. Unlike most, Brandy Melville operates without a public CEO, mission statement or cohesive brand persona, with each store owned by a different, smaller company. But Brandy Melville’s most controversial marketing decision has been what it has chosen to make visible: a commitment to “one size fits small” clothing that, in practice, fits very few. This sizing approach primarily accommodates a slim body type and excludes a substantial number of potential customers, furthering the perception that the brand caters to a specific, unattainable ideal. 

This exclusivity is not accidental; it is fundamental to the brand’s appeal. While such a size-exclusive approach alienates many, it simultaneously deepens the loyalty of those who do fit its standards — reinforcing the attractiveness of belonging to an elite group. In essence, Brandy Melville’s restrictive sizing functions as yet another form of manufactured scarcity, turning the ability to wear the brand into a form of social currency. 

The approach has drawn sustained criticism for reinforcing harmful beauty standards and excluding consumers from participating in a brand that dominates teen fashion culture. Yet for years, Brandy Melville remained seemingly unaffected by such critiques, its silence on sizing just as deliberate as its silence on everything else. 

But here is where the narrative of the brand as an unchanging monolith begins to crack. Despite its image as a brand that operates on its own terms, recent developments suggest that even Brandy Melville is not immune to market demands. The brand’s signature “one-size” offerings have gradually increased in dimensions over time. Further, the company has quietly launched a sister brand that offers two sizes, an admission that the original model leaves money on the table. These adjustments reveal a fundamental truth. For all the apparent indifference to market forces, it is still subject to them.

Ultimately, the Brandy Melville phenomenon reveals not just the power of strategic invisibility, but also its pitfalls. No brand, regardless of its “scarcity,” can perpetually resist consumer demand and pressure. Brandy Melville’s genius has been adapting while maintaining silence, but as fashion evolves toward greater inclusivity, this model is being tested. The brand’s incremental changes prove that even the most resistant retailers must eventually answer to the market, however quietly.

Hi! My name is Mary Sharp and I am studying Finance on the Pre-Law track at Saint Louis University. I love seasonal menus, walkable cities, and baking for the people I love!