“Every new Fashion is a refusal to inherit, a subversion against the oppression of the preceding Fashion; Fashion experiences itself as a right, the natural right of the present over the past.” – Roland Barthes.
HOPPING IN A (FABULOUS) TIME MACHINE
In today’s fast-paced, tech-driven world, trends are born and die constantly. Some start quietly, but if embraced by the mainstream, they explode into global phenomena. One of the latest revivals is lip gloss—a beauty staple that many associated only with the early 2000s. But to understand its return, we need to go back much further, to Ancient Egypt.
Contrary to popular belief, lip gloss fever didn’t begin in the late ’90s. Since the earliest civilisations, people have sought glossy, hydrated looks. In Egypt’s dry climate, mixtures of beeswax and plant oils kept skin and lips moisturised—combining health with beauty.
Jump forward to 1930s Hollywood: glamorous gowns, new ways of expressing sensuality, and the invention of Max Factor’s “X-Rated” lip gloss, created for actresses on screen. Still, like many trends, it faded with the rise of matte looks.
Thirty years later, Bonne Bell introduced “Lip Smackers”—flavoured glosses that caught attention but were again replaced by practicality. Then came the ’90s: longer-lasting, shinier formulas, sticky textures, and a wider range of shades. Celebrities like Posh Spice turned gloss into a trend again, while Black and brown women embraced it as one of the few products that truly suited their skin tones. This marked an important shift in makeup history.
BLACK AND BROWN REVOLUTIONARIES
For decades, the beauty industry ignored darker skin tones, forcing Black and brown women to create their own methods of highlighting beauty. Moisturizing was essential—dryness was seen as neglect—and lip gloss became a tool that signaled care, style, and identity.
In an interview with The Guardian, Dr. Ewoma Ukeleghe explained how she shifted from balms to gloss, with Fenty Beauty (founded by Rihanna) as her favorite brand. Rihanna’s line brought visibility and self-esteem to women of colour, while many companies followed with plumping, hydrating, and tinted glosses.
Among Latina women in the ’90s, the brown lip liner paired with clear gloss became iconic. Inherited from their grandmothers, the “Pachucas,” and later part of the “Chola” aesthetic, the look remains a cultural statement.
BACK TO THE 2020S
Today, lip gloss is back stronger than ever. Fashion, as specialists point out, works in cycles, influenced by nostalgia and social change. After the pandemic, Gen Z embraced shine as a way to “bring life back” to themselves—through fabrics, makeup, and self-expression.
Searches for “lip gloss” rose 11% between 2020 and 2021, proving this comeback is more than temporary. As author Gabriel de Tarde described, society lives by repetition. And right now, that repetition sparkles.
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The article above was edited by Giovanna Rodrigues.
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