Maria Grazia Chiuri took the charge as creative designer of the france maison in 2016, and since then, she was responsible for bringing political context, feminist insights, inclusion and pieces of handicrafts, remodeling the contemporary luxury. Her fashion, often mixed with art, changed the course of Dior into a more wearable brand, going the contrary way of the well remembered New Look. For some, the changes she made didn’t fit with Dior’s aesthetic, but with time she made it clear that fashion doesn’t have to fight with comfort and wearableness.
To say goodbye, let’s take a look at some of Maria Gazia’s most memorable moments as the creative head of Christian Dior.
1 – Spring/summer 2018, “We should all be feminists” – Revolution starts with a T-shirt
After 2 years as the creative director at Dior, Maria made a collection that left no room for doubts when it came to her political opinions. Inspired by a photoshoot of writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, the T-shirt being the main talk of a fashion show wasn’t something usual, and that might be the key to understanding Chiuri’s fashion. Not obvious, but full of meaning. That was the first – clear – position that Dior has ever taken on this type of issue.
2 – Haute Couture Summer 2017
For her Haute Couture debut, Chiuri explained that the show and her arrival at the maison was like unraveling a labyrinth. In a very mystic fairy tail way, she presented a feminine collection, with texture of laces, tulle, embroidered draped and accentuated gown dresses. The New Look spirit was reformed to a witchy fairy, looking like the models had just come out of a magic garden or a high society party – yes, both.
3 – Haute Couture Spring 2021
Right after the 2020 pandemic, when the world was upside down, spiritual knowledge was a high topic on Tik Tok and other social media. Contents like crystals and tarot reading became a haven for the Gen Z, who had their teenage years stolen with a world pandemic. With that in mind, it was no surprise that Maria Grazia sensed the topic and seeked inspiration at the new obsession.
She was inspired by a specific tarot deck, made by Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan in the 15th century. The almost mystic use of laces, velvet, chiffon and tapestry made justice for its Renaissance inspiration, and so did the cuts, which reminisce the historic nobility, and have that “princess” look.
4 – Haute Couture autumn/winter 2022 – The tree of Life
In the beginning of the devastating war in Ukraine, Maria Grazia discovered the job of ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, and made the symbol of the tree of life the main topic of the collection. Inspired by local folklores, Chiuri’s brought to the runaway beautiful embroidery with deep messages: the circle of life and the power of nature and ancestry. With that, Maria once again made clear her political views and her appreciation to traditional habits and art.
5 – Cruise 2026
Inspired by the millenar story of Rome, her Local city in Italy, Maria closed her chapter at Dior in great style, as she always does. Incredibly refined tailoring, reminiscing the architecture of old Rome’s constructions, metallic silk and feminine laces were the look seen. Although the classic inspiration, the collection was not outdated in any way: there were pieces that looked like a modern fashionable working woman would wear, with beautifully cut tailoring.
Set up in the gardens of Villa Albani Torlonia, a Renaissance Palace and the Cruise show tied up Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work with mastery.
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The article above was edited by Gabriela Travizzanutto.
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