If you were bummed to see Stefano Pilati take his final bow at Yves Saint Laurent earlier this year, your world obviously came to a screeching halt when you heard that the brand’s new creative director, Hedi Slimane, renamed the legendary label Saint Laurent Paris.
Um, excuse me?
“Is he trying to ruin my life?” you probably asked yourself as you verified the shocking truth.
Between the array of “Le Smoking” blazers to oversized bows, Slimane’s debut collection for Saint Laurent is one big nod to the design house’s roots. Thank goodness, nobody likes too much change.
At the same time, I was unimpressed. While this would’ve been a stellar autumn line, the collection is just not appropriate for the season. Donning a thick, long-sleeved maxi dress in the spring sounds fun in theory, but we usually crave lighter fabrics as the temperature rises. Not to mention a long, textured jacket is hardly springtime- approved. Maybe I have an overdramatized idea of seasons, but how could this collection carry style mavens into Resort 2013?
Though the nod to the late Yves Saint Laurent is heartwarming, this collection’s California twist is reminiscent of what Rachel Zoe used to wear before she toned down the boho-chic look. Although I die for the stylist-turned-designer and everything she does, it just doesn’t feel original. I wish Slimane took the Saint Laurent essentials and mixed them with unexpected silhouettes and hues. Now that would've been something spectacular.
Speaking of hues, why was the majority this collection’s color palette so drab? Though I probably wear as much black as The Addams Family characters do, spring collections are supposed to be filled with punchy pops of color. If Slimane wanted to let the gorgeous lace and phenomenal detailing stand out, white would’ve been a brilliant alternative. The designer did offer a rampant sampling of colors towards the end of the show; however, it felt random. Each vibrant dress was too similiar to the previous look to blow me away.
Though every design house is its own entity, Raf Simons’ Dior collection made me think. Hedi Slimane’s debut, on the other hand, did not—it felt expected.
But perhaps I’m being a little harsh—I don’t want Slimane to also banish me from future Saint Laurent shows. What do you think of this collection? I’m dying to know.