Fashion week is an event that seems to be happening frequently in my eyes. Every two months I come across new runway looks and clips of each show. However, it has only been in terms of brands that are high-end. I never paid much attention to brands that aren’t as commercialized, so I took it upon myself to find some shows from brands I had never heard of. In my journey, I have highlighted one from the previous fashion weeks that I fell in love with. I would like to disclaim that by high-end fashion brands I am talking about the following: Gucci, Chanel, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Burberry, Dior, Saint Laurant, Versace, Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford. I will also be highlighting only three fashion weeks: New York, Paris, and Milan.
New York Fashion week: Grace Ling
Grace Ling’s debut at NY Spring/Summer 24 was a great success. With the brand’s main focus being “eccentric elegance, intelligent femininity, and a balance between sensuality and formality,” Ling decided that she wanted to add “a little deviance” this time around. All of the clothes are in monotone: black, white and grays. With the colors listed, the collection might sound dull, but it’s quite the opposite. From start to finish the collection catches one’s eyes, but I would have to say it does so subtly. Many of the pieces seem to be common items but once one looks closely they can view Ling’s creative centerpiece that separates her designs from the rest.
Titled “Neverland,” this collection is chic and has somewhat of a futuristic look. The theme is the study between the human body and objects. This is done by the inclusion of metal pieces and 3D technology mixed in with the clothes’ fabric. I believe the inclusions drive the collection’s theme 100%. Due to the clothing part being simple, the metal pieces become the main focus. One thing I would like to mention is another thing that drives the collection’s theme is the cutting of the fabric. Not every look has metal pieces attached, some looks are simply fabric and in monochrome. It is subtle as mentioned before, but as I gazed on it more, those looks have become my personal favorites.
Look four, a short-sleeved, sheer maxi dress, with no metal inclusions, encapsulates a sophisticated feel. I also think if styled right this dress can be a great addition to your closet. Along with look 24, which takes a spin on a white dress shirt. With a cut that allows it to stand out, all while being wearable in a corporate setting. A look that is fully out of a metal piece is the opening look. Worn with a black skirt, which made it pop out, Ling displays the 3D technology well. Another one of my favorites and the last to be mentioned is look 11, which uses a metal rose to tie in a two piece black dress. The rose in the center drives Ling’s message of Neverland further.
A unique take on using 3D technology, allowed this collection to stand out. I hope in the near future to see more 3D technology in fashion from Ling. Each look was calming to look at, nothing too eccentric and if so it isn’t too much on the eyes. For the theme created, I think Ling was able to deliver it to the audience and I appreciate that.
Paris Fashion week: Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe, one Spring Summer 2024 Paris show that I would like to highlight. Under the Comme des Garcon label, Junya Watanabe is known for their avant-garde style. A collection that stood out to me due to its sculpture-like clothes on the runway. Each look emotes the need to be in a museum, with multiple shapes planted in different angles, Watanabe creates unique designs that continue his legacy.
There are 38 looks in this collection, with various materials, ranging from leather, denim, and tweed. When it comes to colors it is mostly monochrome with only two looks in bright colors. Each model is styled with hair that holds a geometric shape, this means that their hair has uneven bangs cut in triangles or styled in squares. The makeup seems to be natural excluding the models’ lips which are either in black, red, or dark blue lipsticks.
Look one immediately lets the audience know what they’re in for. It’s a full dress with 3D triangles facing outwards, very geometric and spunky. Look 35, my personal favorite is a sweater vest that is long and runs past the model’s knees. It is made out of tweed and is in black and white. It stays on theme but its shape isn’t as protruding as the first look. Its shapes are flat and face inwards which gives the vest a subtle look. Look 25, take a spin on the denim jacket. It has elongated sleeves, 3D triangle shoulders, and a prominent collar, which reminds me of a flower.
Fashion is art, there is no doubt about it. It’s an expression that is portrayed visually. Seeing Junya Watanabe fully understand that and use it to his advantage was something fun to see. A collection I thoroughly enjoyed this year and one I think should be highlighted for the Paris Week portion.
Milan Fashion Week: AVAVAV
Beate Karlsson the creative director at AVAVAV has created a storm in Milan this Spring Summer 2024 fashion week. My personal favorite runway, the theme seemed to be chaos. Right away the show’s playlist starts with heavy breathing indicating stress and a staff member is seen putting up the title of AVAVAV just seconds before models begin to walk. The models seem to be relishing in chaos as well, this is shown by them hurriedly walking on the runway and some not even finishing the full walk before going backstage. Their makeup is dramatic, in which models’ eyeliners are thick and appear to be running down their faces. Some models even wear colored contacts and different colored eyeliner to drive the theme further.
In terms of the clothing, they seem to range in every aspect. Some seem to be comfortable with items such as hoodies, and some seem uncomfortable, with outfits such as a duct tape dress. With the models’ walks, makeup and outfits it’s best to say that this show is entertaining and allows one to anticipate each outfit that comes out.
Look two, a t-shirt that’s sleeves are being pinned by safety pins. In the center it has the words “Add Back?!” and below an arrow that points right. This arrow makes sense when the model walks back and shows that the t-shirt has no back attached. I loved that factor, I thought it was comical and was a unique way to showcase the stressful feel of the show. Many of this irony is portrayed throughout the show, on look seven, the model wears a hoodie backward with the hoodie stating “Wrong Side?!” My ultimate favorite was look 26. It was a pantsuit where the jacket is big and boxy, but instead of using fabric, the suit is made out of sticky notes.
An event as charming as AVAVAV deserves to be highlighted and I encourage everyone to take a good 7 minutes from their day to watch its Spring Summer 2024 show in Milan.