At the start of 2021 — much like millions of other people — I made myself a silly, little resolution.
I mean, how could I not? Making resolutions is a quintessential part of ushering in the new year, and there was nothing more that I wanted than to shove the dumpster fire that was 2020 far, far into the past.
“I want to fix my hair routine,” I said.
Fast forward four months and my hair is still just as dry and frizzy as it was at the beginning of the year. But after a three-hour dive into the online world of hair care, I learned a lot about myself, my hair, and this thing called “hair porosity.” Previously, I had never heard of the term, but if there’s anything that I gathered from the dozens of articles and videos I sifted through, it’s that knowing your hair porosity and caring for your hair accordingly can transform your hair.
Let me tell you everything there is to know about hair porosity, how to determine your own hair porosity, and what it means for your routine.
- What’s hair porosity?
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I’m glad you asked. To put it simply, hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. The porosity of your hair affects how well oils and moisture pass through the cuticles of your hair.
Porosity can be broken down into three categories: low, normal and high. Low porosity hair has cuticles that are very close together. Normal porosity hair has cuticles that are less closely bound. And high porosity hair has cuticles that are more widely spaced out. Porosity is mostly determined by genetics, but it can change due to factors like exposure, chemical processing and environmental damage.
- How do you determine your hair porosity?
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Wondering what hair porosity type you have? Luckily, there’s an easy way to test it out at home. All you need is a cup of water — a clear glass is preferable — and a strand of your hair.
Take the strand of hair and place it in the water. It’s best to do this when your hair is freshly washed for the most accurate reading. If the hair floats at the top of the water, you likely have low porosity hair. If the hair slowly sinks to somewhere in the middle of the water, you likely have normal porosity hair. Finally, if the hair immediately sinks to the bottom of the glass, you likely have high porosity hair.
- What do the different types mean?
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So what does all of this mean? Let me give you a quick run-down:
Low Porosity: Hair with low porosity has a tightly bound cuticle layer that tends to overlap itself — think of the tiles on a shingled roof. This makes it difficult for any moisture or processing chemicals to penetrate through the hair. Low porosity hair is also prone to protein build-up, which can leave it feeling stiff and straw-like.
A general rule of thumb for those with low porosity hair is to stay away from protein-rich conditioners and instead go for protein-free conditioners that use moisture-retaining ingredients like glycerin or honey. Applying heat when conditioning your hair is also a great way to help open up the cuticle. Products with ingredients like shea butter, argan oil and jojoba oil are also great additions to a low porosity hair-care routine.
Normal Porosity: Normal porosity hair is arguably the easiest type to take care of and requires the least amount of maintenance. The cuticle layer is loose enough to allow just the right amount of moisture in, but is still tight enough to prevent necessary moisture from escaping the hair strand.
Working in occasional deep-conditioning treatments to maintain your hair health is great for those with normal porosity hair. Normal porosity hair tends to hold styles, processing and treatments well, but continuous processing and damage can increase your hair’s porosity.
High Porosity: High porosity hair can either be inherent or simply the result of damaged hair. High porosity hair has widely spaced cuticles that easily absorb moisture, but it has a hard time retaining that moisture and leaves your hair prone to frizz.
To combat moisture loss, try incorporating leave-in conditioners, moisturizers and sealers into your routine. These products will help your hair grab onto the moisture you’re giving it and not let it go. It’s also a good idea to use products with anti-humectants (non moisture-preserving substances) if you live in climates with high heat and humidity (AKA Florida). Anti-humectants will help seal your damaged cuticles and prevent them from absorbing any excess moisture in the air.
Hair porosity may be a term you’ve never heard of until now, but don’t let this be the last time you see it. Just a few simple changes to your routine to cater to the porosity of your hair can transform its look and feel in just a few weeks. Take it from me — someone who didn’t know what the heck to do about her low porosity hair until now. With a quick Google search, I’ve created a game plan for my hair, and we’ll both be ready for our hot girl summer in no time.