“…We should make clear the difficulty of providing a simple, straightforward and universally shared definition of ‘fashion.’ On one side of the spectrum, fashion is defined in a restrictive way as the study of material artefacts such as clothing, apparel and accessories. On the opposite side, others will argue that fashion is a cultural phenomenon that encompasses not only the way people dress but also how they act and think. Fashion in this latter respect is a symbolic world that comprises all aspects of life.”
– Francesca Polese & Regina Lee Blaszczyk in “Fashion Forward: The Business History of Fashion”
The fashion industry has proved to be racially biased due to its predominant use of white models in fashion shows, which has shown to have increased in the years of the 2000s. During the 2013 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York City, in which the Spring/Summer 2014 collection was debuted, 79.98% of the models to walk the runway were white models, leaving only 8.08% of the models to be black, 8.1% to be Asian, and only 3.19% to be Latina models. (Jezebel) Although the percentage of white models in this fashion show have decreased since the 2008 Fall collection show, when the percentage of white models reached 87%, these numbers are still overwhelmingly disparate.
Reema Arca Spring 2014 Collection
Just earlier this year, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for the Fall 2014 collection unveiled disappointing racial ratios once more. Jezebel reported, after the Fall 2014 Fashion Week ended, that out of the 148 shows, which consisted of 4,621 looks, only 985 were worn by models of color. These numbers indicate that 78.69% of the models in the shows were white. Even though this number has slightly decreased from the Spring/Summer 2014 Fashion Week, it still “hovers around 80 percent, which has been roughly the percentage of looks worn by white models for the past six seasons.” (Jezebel)
Monique Ihuillier Spring/Summer 2014 Collection
In reading these numbers for the first time, I was appalled, yet very confused as to why these numbers appeared so heavily biased. The fashion industry is a global industry, therefore it is important that all cultures and races are represented equally. These models should inspire the everyday woman, consumer of fashion, or aspiring model, no matter the color of her skin.
It is crucial to acknowledge both perspectives of the fashion industry as a market, and as a cultural movement, to fully understand the unjust statistics of white models versus non-white models. As Polese and Blaszczyk stated, if fashion can be positively defined as a “cultural phenomenon,” then the models should represent this diversity as well. In addition, my belief is that if fashion is to be defined as a profitable market, then all who enter the business, including the models, should not face discriminatory limitations, and should have equal opportunities, just as they should in any other field. Whether or not one in the industry views fashion as an art form, a cultural movement, a study of fabrics, or as a profitable market, it still does not excuse them from conducting racially biased shows, for the industry is absolutely global, and should not be subjective.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 Collection
This industry is a system with many interconnecting parts. The designers are the roots of the fashion industry. Designers work hand in hand with photographers, and casting directors as well, in order to assure that their garments are featured in the way they envision. The photographers and casting directors also work alongside the models, who ultimately bring the designer’s pieces to life. Each of these jobs are crucial to one another and make up what is known as the fashion industry. Each branch of the industry harnesses different amounts of responsibilities, yet they all rely on each other in order to be successful. Models have become such a large part of the fashion industry, that they have been able to construct a separate “Modeling Industry.” The designers are in charge of making decisions in regard to anything from the clothing to the models, but the casting agencies have really taken the reigns when it comes to casting the models for a brand.
In saying this, I am attempting to pose the question, where does the responsibility for racial inequality amongst female models lie? Is it with the designers, or could it fall into the hands of the casting agencies? Could it be the fault of photographers as well? Also, what general effect do these statistics have on non-white women, both young and old?
Well, in my opinion, I theorize that the fault lies not only with the designers, but within all parts of the system amongst the fashion industry, including the photographers and casting agencies. Also, this institutionalized racism has a multitude of effects on non-white women not only within the industry, but outside of it as well. With less non-white models being featured, especially in the media today, women of color or of different ethnicities are sent negative messages. Since the industry sets an example of what conventional beauty looks like, everyday women of color are subject to insecurities regarding their own beauty. Women, no matter their culture, ethnicity, and race, should be able to have pride in their uniquity and celebrate their beauty. But the fashion industry does contribute to the difficulty in women doing so.
Naomi Campbell, Bethann Hardison, Iman on Good Morning America
Retired supermodel, now modeling agent Bethann Hardison, who flatly states in Vicki Woods’ 2008 Vogue article, “Is Fashion Racist?” that “the model has become a hanger.” Retired models such as Hardison, Iman, and Naomi Campbell agree that the models are in charge of creating beautiful, lasting statement by wearing a garment. They believe in diversity, and that the uniform look of the models of today stifle the beauty and uniquity of the pieces, for the models ultimately bring the garments to life. These retired models are known for spearheading runway diversity movements, and have spoken out against the racial inequality in hopes to raise awareness and create change. Change is amongst us, however, for designers like Diane von Furstenberg, Desigual, Bibhu Mohapatra, Ohne Titel, Pamella Roland, Naeem Khan, Zac Posen and Tracy Reese, Anna Sui and Creatures of the Wind have set great examples in featuring women of color, who both opened and closed their shows. (Jezebel)
Backstage Zac Posen Spring 2014 Collection
The catwalk and fashion editorials have been the primary fashion outlets for many years, but with the lack of ethnic diversity, it is hard to believe that designers are truly embracing fashion’s artistic value. As Ellena Savage, a notable feminist, and political writer puts it, in her criticism piece on Sao Paulo Fashion Week, “If fashion wishes to be considered a legitimate art form, it must interpret and transform the world it reflects upon.” As a world wide industry, it is imperative that multiple cultures and diverse women are featured, yet this has not been the case in the past decade. There is no doubt that the fashion industry has a heavy influence on women, and with the continuation of distasteful misrepresentation and inequality, the industry will lose its influence and high reputation.
However, it is important to spread the word to help combat these racial inequalities. We as women should educate ourselves on the diversity of beauty, and use our passion and voices to create large movements. To the Collegiettes of all colors, ethnicities, or cultural backgrounds, beauty does not come in any one particular shade. Beauty does not follow any one specific criteria, so celebrate diversity and embrace the many shades and variations of beauty, for we all possess it first from within.