Every few months the skincare side of TikTok pumps out a product or skincare routine that “revolutionizes skincare” and “actually works.” The last rotation of trends brought about slugging, or coating your face in petroleum jelly to lock in moisture, (which left me and my hormonal acne severely disappointed), and now a new fad has surfaced: skin cycling. The general public has every right to be skeptical about this invention of yet another life-altering skincare hack. After all, “skin-cycling” sounds more like an exercise routine for your face than a skincare routine, but I digress. I did, in fact, succumb to the desire to have smooth skin and gave it a try. We’ll get to that later!
What is Skin-Cycling and how does it work?
Skin cycling is the newest TikTok trend started by Dr. Whitney Bowe, an award-winning dermatologist based in New York. Dr. Bowe graduated from Yale University, received her M.D. from the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, has been practicing dermatology for over a decade, and even started her own skincare line, Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty, which she endorses on her TikTok. Dr. Bowe emphasizes that the main mistake her patients make in their skincare routines is piling up product after product all at once with no time for the skin barrier to replenish itself.
“Why should I care so much about my skin barrier?” you may ask. It protects your body from toxins and infections. Dr. Bowe argues that using a ton of harsh chemicals every day dries out your skin and breaks down your skin barrier. The skin-cycling routine aims to give your skin some breathing room. Plus, it’s very simple, affordable, and easy to keep track of. A no-sweat skincare routine is perfect for tight schedules, especially those of college students. The routine itself is a four-night cycle. Each day concentrates on a specific product or lack thereof.
Night 1
The first night of the skin cycle is exfoliation night. When you exfoliate, you rid your skin of dead skin cells that may be clogging your pores and causing acne. Dr. Bowe recommends a chemical exfoliant as opposed to a physical one. Chemical exfoliants (like Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Glycolic Acid, and Lactic Acid) dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells to each other. If you decide to go the physical exfoliator route, be careful. Some exfoliants can tear and agitate the skin barrier.
Night 2
Night two of your skin cycling routine is retinoid night. Retinoids are pretty potent skincare products derived from Vitamin A. They boost collagen, reduce wrinkles, unclog pores, and encourage cell turnover, which gives you that glazed-donut-esque skin. Two types of retinoids are retinol and tretinoin. Tretinoin is basically the dermatologist-prescribed version of retinol. It is much more concentrated and works faster than retinol. People with sensitive skin may want to watch the amount of retinol they use and the frequency at which they apply it, as it may cause irritation. My test: try a pea-sized amount on a small part of the skin before applying it to your face.
Nights 3 and 4
Nights three and four are your recovery nights. These nights should be devoid of active ingredients and entirely focused on hydration. Wear a hydrating mask, slap on some hyaluronic acid, or, I cannot believe I am advising this, try slugging if your skin is on the drier side. Give your face some time to chill out after essentially dissolving an entire layer of dead skin. Your skin is tired, so give it the rest it deserves.
Dr. Bowe claims the promise of improvement in the quality of the skin by the end of the second cycle, which is a big promise to make. But if you search skin cycling on Google or TikTok, you will see the overwhelming amount of positive testimony that juxtaposes my hesitations. Multitudes of boasts about skin transformations, giving Dr. Bowe and her skin-cycling routine all of the credit.
My personal experience with skin cycling
Look, I am the average consumer. I see a TV ad and suddenly I want the newest nonstick pan or back massager. I automatically trust lawyers with TV ads. Naturally, I was eager to give skin cycling a chance. To give a little background information, I have naturally oily skin and extremely unpredictable hormonal acne. For years I have been trying to nail down a solid routine that keeps my skin clear. I was initially critical, but my skin cycling experience was surprisingly satisfying! After my third cycle, I noticed a general improvement in my skin texture. The acne that normally latches onto my chin stopped popping up and my acne scars faded!
So… How do I start?
Now that you have a good grip on the concept of skin cycling, you may be wondering where to start, assuming you actually want to try it. I recommend starting the cycle on a Monday. It’s the beginning of the week and makes sense for it to also be the beginning of the cycle. For the first night of your cycle, the exfoliation night, I recommend the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, which retails for about $20. It is not the cheapest option, but I have seen the best results. Plus, the bottle has lasted me for months! The glycolic acid toner from The Inkey List is a more budget-friendly option, and it retails for $10.
For the second night of the skin cycle, you want to use retinol, as tretinoin typically has to be prescribed by a doctor. I suggest The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalene, retailing for $7.50, or the CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, which sells for $21.
If you’re like me, you jump at the next TikTok-endorsed skincare trend in hopes of one of them actually working. I’ve tried the sixteen-step Korean skincare; I was too lazy. I tried slugging; I severely broke out the next morning. I have to give it to Dr. Bowe, simplifying my skincare routine was the best decision I have made for my skin. Trying new routines can be scary. I mean, it’s your face after all. You have to look at it every day! Take it from me as someone who cares way too much about everything. It doesn’t hurt to try something new! Unless your skin burns after applying a product, in which case trying something new may be very painful.