On Oct. 20, 2023, I had the privilege of attending a live taping of one of my favourite podcasts, Articles of Interest, at the annual Hot Docs Podcast Festival.
Created by Avery Trufelman in 2018, Articles of Interest dives into all things fashion-related. With deep insight into the multidisciplinary systems that go into what we wear, this podcast has become my go-to for getting a fresh perspective that fulfills my inner fashion nerd. Touching on environmental impacts, global ethics and industry zeitgeists, Trufelman does a fantastic job producing what is now part of the New York Times’ top 10 podcasts. This live episode, “A Few Shoes,” is definitely worthy of that!
On stage at the Hot Docs theatre in Toronto, Trufelman sat down with shoe designer and activist Aurora James and director of Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum Elizabeth Semmelhack to talk about all things shoes! Recently releasing her memoir Wildflower, James recounts her experiences when developing her brand Brother Vellies, while Semmelhack provides historical context on shoes included within James’ collection.
Born and raised in Toronto, James recounted tales of her mom taking her to the Bata Museum, where her love of shoes blossomed. While travelling the world, James expanded her manufacturing on a global scale. She maintained her business principles of keeping traditional design practices true to their origins, shown in the culturally tied shoes she adapts for the contemporary urban buyer.
On a first-name basis with Anna Wintour — humble brag — James has not only been able to grace the cover of Vogue and be named one of the magazine’s top voices in fashion, but has also dressed celebs like Solange Knowles at the 2020 Met Gala, Kerry Washington and most recently Hailey Bieber. Brother Vellies, in my personal opinion, is a brand to look to when considering what a fashion brand should be!
Still, on the luxury side, James tells Trufelman that “fashion should be made with intention and love.” At the same time, she understands that her prices are expensive, but from an ethical standpoint, she strays away from the fast fashion market.
All of Brother Vellies shoes are one-of-a-kind and handmade by shoemakers throughout Africa, South America and the United States. James works one-on-one with people who originated her designs with the idea of making the Western world aware of the historical significance of the shoes that we buy in stores today.
Throughout the interview, James spoke on the importance of providing fair and stable wages for workers. Additionally, she talked about the contribution of your purchase going towards creating solid economic and sustainability systems for many regions worldwide. James also discussed the shoes that started it all, the Veilles, which holds a strong connection to her personal quest for seeking identity within a white-dominated industry.
In 2020, James created a non-profit organization called the 15 Percent Pledge. Following the murder of George Floyd that sparked international Black Lives Matter protests, James set out to deconstruct racism that we see within our everyday lives.
James wrote in her Instagram post, “So many of your businesses are built on Black spending power. So many of your stores are set up in Black communities. So many of your sponsored posts are seen on Black feeds. This is the least you can do for us. We represent 15% of the population, and we need to represent 15% of your shelf space.”
On the topic of appropriation, James told the panel that her brand seeks to marry her urban city lifestyle with cultural roots. She emphasized her dedication and the importance of Black-owned businesses.
Writing, “Small businesses can turn into bigger ones. Real investment will start happening in Black businesses, which will subsequently be paid forward into our Black communities.”
On the podcast, she critiqued how the industry tends to take advantage of smaller designers for their own profit and comically called out Steve Madden for notoriously manufacturing “cheaper” versions of her and her associated team’s designs.
One of the many takeaways from this insightful sit down is Aurora James quoting the African proverb, “Until the Lion tells the story, the hunter will always be the hero.”
She reflected on her mother telling her that “Fashion is a way where we can uncover women’s history…” teaching her to “…seek out women’s stories in unsuspected places, and fashion is often one of the places that those stories are kept.”
As a lover of shoes, I now have an added appreciation for craftsmanship.
Trufelman asked James, “Women talking about is almost always a frivolous thing. Why are shoes so important for storytelling?”
James responded, “I think fashion gets written off as a frivolous thing because it was one of the ways women hold power.”
We can trace back our country’s lineage to fashion, with Elizabeth Semmelhack adding, “Canada was founded on fashion”.
In supporting women’s voices within the fashion industry, we can continue to uphold the long-term livelihood of Canadian business owners and celebrate the achievements of women in the strides for representation.
This event was indeed filled with so much knowledge and innovation. I definitely encourage you to check the now-uploaded audio episode!
To plan your visit to the Bata Shoe Museum, click here
To see the shoes mentioned within the podcast, click here