This reading week, my friends and I decided to ditch the cold (and impending storm) in St Andrews and head south to Capri, Italy. After two flights, an eight-hour sleepover at the Zurich airport, and quite a rocky ferry ride, we finally reached our destination. Not wanting to waste a minute of our time, we hit the ground running after quickly stopping at our AirBnB to rejuvenate and take in the aerial view of Capri’s pastel-painted houses and vibrant blue water from our terrace. We then headed into town, winding down several stone-paved paths that eventually spit us out into the centre square.
Marked by a beautiful orange clock tower, the charming Piazzetta is the heart and soul of Capri. Bustling with tourists and locals alike, the square is lined with cafes and restaurants packed with people taking in the show-stopping views overlooking the sea and cliffs and indulging in pizzas and spritzes.
After taking a lap through the square, we ventured into the smaller streets of the town, stopping to peer into every vibrantly decorated window with displays containing everything from ornate jewelry, especially from the store Deep Sea, to intricate glassware and beautiful clothing, specifically the swimwear at Moda Caprese Di Montesano Francesco. After hearing about Capri’s famous hand-made sandals, we wandered into several shops, like Canfora, to admire the various designs. Every store has a distinct style, and we loved exploring the array of colours and materials at each one.
My favourite places, however, were the little produce shops we found down the emptier side streets. With the colourful displays of ripened fruit, vegetables, and herbs lining the streets outside and shelves up to the ceiling inside, we were in absolute heaven. We stocked up with as much fresh produce as we could carry and enjoyed it for breakfast on our terrace every morning.
Capri is renowned for its lemons, or Sfusato d’Amalfi, which have grown on the Amalfi Coast for thousands of years. This specific type of lemon was originally cultivated as a way to prevent scurvy on long sea voyages, as their 25% juice content gives them an unusually high vitamin C level. Their thick and aromatic peel is used to make their famous lemon liquor, Limoncello. Today, lemons remain a culturally and culinarily prized symbol of the island. We first noticed this when walking through the town and observing the lemon-themed knick-knacks and treats in different shops. Its significance as a culinary staple is most apparent in its delicious lemon-infused dishes. I was especially a fan of a lemon risotto I enjoyed for lunch at Ai Faraglioni, the limoncello spritzes we whipped up on our terrace, and, of course, any limone gelato I tried on the island.
Our first night’s dinner at La Capannina healed any lingering feelings of jet lag. I decided on a delicious combination of a hugo spritz paired with spaghetti alla vongole, and it was a life-changing experience. After successfully inducing food comas, we had to end the night on a sweet note. We hunted high and low for gelato, eventually finding a stand right in the centre square. As a creature of habit, I settled on hazelnut, which in my mind is the perfect gelato flavour. The place we frequented the most for our coffee and gelato cravings was Da Alberto, and I would highly recommend it for its quality, convenient location, and friendly staff.
A collective craving for pizza one night resulted in yet another memorable dinner at Logano Ristorante Pizzeria. I indulged in my first Aperol spritz of the trip and a chilled (free!) shot of fresh limoncello. The main event, however, was the simple yet magnificent Margherita pizza I had been eagerly anticipating since I’d arrived.
Next, we found a serene and restorative escape from the lively bustle of town at the beautiful rocky beaches of Capri. My friends and I rented chairs at La Fontelina Beach Club, which overlooks the famous Faraglioni, three staggering rock structures that jut majestically out of the Tyrrhenian. We spent the entire day by the sea, soaking in the Italian sun and reading our respective books, with only a tiny break for more pasta and bright pink cocktails. Though the trek home required a half-hour steeply uphill hike (during which we had to stop for multiple breaks), the time at the beach was worth it. We continued our exploration of Capri’s beaches the next day, this time embarking on an evening excursion to a secluded spot to the side of the Bagni Internazionali Beach Club. We whiled away the hours until the sun went down, jumping in and out of the sea, snacking on potato chips, drinking mini bottles of bellinis, and taking in our picturesque surroundings.
Another beautiful haven tucked away from the busy streets of the town is the Giardini di Augusto or Gardens of Augustus. Five minutes from the centre square and a one-euro entry, the gardens are an enchanting (and shady) reprieve. We were all transfixed by the beautiful display of flowers and foliage framing the garden’s fountains and statues, and the 360-degree views of the crystal-clear turquoise sea below.
Capri is truly a magical place, steeped in scenic beauty, rich history, cultural traditions, and welcoming locals. The combination of all of these things makes the island a must-visit destination. So, as you plan your next reading week adventure, I hope you’ll consider Capri and all of the unique experiences it has to offer.