Italian high fashion brand, Miu Miu, recently launched their Fall/Winter (FW) 2023 advertising campaign, titled “Miu Miu LIVE!” The campaign’s star-studded cast include singer-songwriter Ethel Cain, actress Mia Goth and LGBTQ+ activist Zaya Wade, among other prominent Gen Z icons. Models clad in heavy layers of wool and cashmere are seen rushing around an obstacle course of gray walls–micro-hangbands in tow, naturally.
Neutral tones of beige, gray and navy truly give this collection a winter feeling that reminds me of waiting for the bus in sub-negative temperatures. The brand also included sheer chiffon dresses and paper-thin blouses, in a stark contrast to the structured, oversized coats layered over them. This jarring combination is equal parts visionary and puzzling, as is the pairing of neon pink tights, bedazzled underwear and a black turtleneck. This absurdity is intentional and adds intrigue to the series, even if it appears half-baked at times.
The advertisements are designed to generate interest in the FW collection, which includes eerily vague descriptions of being “in the here and now,” and occupying a place “between transient, democratic spaces in shades of gray.” The brand declared that the campaign is meant to evoke reflections on the concept of “movement everywhere and nowhere.” Compared to their previous campaigns, “Miu Miu LIVE!” falls a little flat due to its ambiguous themes and unconventional stylings.
Miu Miu is a branch company of Prada that was established in 1993. Despite its age, the label has recently become popular among younger consumers due to the brand’s habitual embrace of youthful trends, concepts and ambassadors. The inclusion of contemporary K-pop and J-pop idols, as well as iconic subculture actresses from across the globe not only expands the brand’s appeal and marketability, but represents a key branding strategy that has been uniquely successful for Miu Miu.
Fashion executives have struggled to identify what appeals to the new generation of high fashion consumers. Many members of Gen Z are beginning to reach an age where purchasing designer items is more realistic, and brands are scrambling to secure a spot in this generation’s staple wardrobe. Although other high fashion houses have also employed popular figures and internet celebrities, such as Gucci featuring Harry Styles in several campaigns, no fashion brand has been better able to infiltrate Gen Z markets than Miu Miu.
So, what makes Miu Miu so popular among a new age of consumers? Miu Miu’s resurgence partially can be attributed to TikTok. Videos of stars such as Hailey Bieber and Hunter Schaefer went viral last fashion season as the brand’s micro-mini skirt trended. In fact, the Spring/Summer 2023 collection garnered a whopping 23 million views. It’s no surprise that Miu Miu was named the top brand of 2022 by Lyst. The momentum continues into 2023 as the label’s “water lily” leather ballerina flats have skyrocketed in popularity; especially after cult-classic TikTok fashion influencer Clara Perlmutter (@tinyjewishgirl) featured them on her page.
Although the Fall/Winter 2023 campaign was not my favorite, I still believe that Miu Miu is a refreshing and innovative label. The brand has produced some of my absolute favorite looks this year and I’m looking forward to their next moves as they continue to evolve with their fanbase.