This past week, I had the amazing opportunity to sit down with Project Runway star, and SCAD alumni, Merline Labissiere, and talk about her stunning collection for New York Fashion Week! Merline graduated from SCAD in 2011with a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion, and since then has moved on to compete in Project Runway, create her own brand, and show off collections at New York Fashion Week. On top of all this, she works to teach inner city kids about the fashion world, as well as developing non profit organizations. I’m so beyond grateful that she took the time out of her brief visit to Savannah to have this exclusive interview with us. Merline is one of the sweetest and most passionate artists I’ve ever met, and if you haven’t seen her work before, you are truly missing out. Her unique collection was a complete success. Make sure to check it out on her website: http://www.merlinelabissiere.com
Her Campus: What inspired your line for New York Fashion Week?
Merline: This collection was super fun to make. I wanted to go kind of back to my roots- my family is from Haiti. So I basically took elements from the map of Haiti. I just researched a lot of different types of satellite maps. They could be satellite maps from like the hurricane maps or any other kind really. So I took those satellite maps and I kind of just zoomed out and used those shapes from what those maps gave. And so that’s how a lot of elements were incorporated, you know there’s laser cutting in my collection, there’s these interesting shapes. So I got those from that. And you know, I love architecture. What I love about architecture is how it’s created by geometric shapes, like the floor plans, the maps, the sections. So that’s what I’m really drawn to. And I was like, “How can I combine that with my passion altogether and bring my heritage in?”, so that’s how this collection kind of blossomed. In this collection, my brand, Merline Labissiere, I design for the creative woman that works in a business environment. So, the cool thing about this collection was that I got to bring sport wear material into my collection, which I’ve never done before! Everything I used is like from when I was on Project Runway. I did New York Fashion Week last spring, and that was a lot of cotton, just natural fibers, linen, I used a lot of linen, leather- I still use leather but I just use it differently in this collection. So I wanted to design for that creative woman that’s always on the go- how can she still be comfortable and fabulous at the same time? And so that’s what this collection was all about. I literally rolled up to New York Fashion Week with my suitcase and the clothes were just rolled up, and I could just take them out and unroll them- because that’s what a creative woman would do. She’s always on the go, she’s always travelling.
Her Campus: What did you think about the other designers at New York Fashion Week this year?
Merline: Oh my gosh, it was amazing to see what other designers are doing. I got to see red carpet garments on the runway. I got to see very “avant garde” pieces. And I was just so in awe of how designers are already so amazing. And it was okay because I don’t feel like I’m competing against them because their “brand” and their “woman” are different from my “girl”. But it was just so inspiring to see what they were doing. I don’t think I ever have a favorite other designer that was there. You know, they had a 7pm show and mine was the 9pm show, so I was coming in at 9 but then I got to see the 7pm show, and there was just, I don’t know. I just love to be around other designers and have other designers see what I’m doing and my passion, and I get to see their process and how they dress their “girl”. I think that, for me, that’s the most important part- to see how they work through the process.
Her Campus: So, tell us all about what really goes in to New York Fashion Week for you, as the designer:
Merline: EVERYTHING you can think of! The branding, you as an artist, you’re branding yourself as a designer, so the things that go inside the bags- from the accessories {to the rest of the pieces}. I actually partnered up with Tati Smith, she’s an employee here at SCAD, and she makes jewelry. So she provided the jewelry line. Buying the right look book, because, you know, you have buyers sitting in the audience, which is amazing- you have Google and the press. So having a look book is important to make sure you’re taking pictures of your collection to show them. Another thing I’ve learned from New York Fashion Week is the line sheet- so you can give them to the buyers so they can place orders. The shoes, the socks, helpers backstage- you do need help dressing all 14 models that I had to dress, setting up beforehand exactly what you want for makeup. Because the problem isn’t the day of the fashion show- it’s everything leading up to the fashion show. It’s making sure your makeup person knows what kind of makeup you want, because when you’re there, you aren’t going to be running around looking for your makeup person because you already sent all that in. So I worked with this awesome organization called Art Heart Fashion. So, of course, there’s New York Fashion Week, and then there’s designers under New York Fashion Week, and then there’s organizations under New York Fashion Week that have designers under them. So I got to work with them, where the models were provided, everything was provided, so I just had to show up, which was awesome. And part of that organization is that all of the proceeds go to the AIDS foundation.
Her Campus: What is your favorite part of the overall process?
Merline: Well, my favorite part of being a designer is, of course, designing. But actually it’s probably the research. Part of research is dreaming. So I LOVE research. I love making boards, I love designing- I could do that all day. The other process that I really love is getting real women to come to my studio and try the clothes on and get feedback from them. I’ve never done that before, and I decided to do it this time. And I would have real women come in and I would say “Would you wear this to work?” or “What would you add?”, and I would have them bring their favorite 5 pieces of garments and tell me why they love them. And that was a movement that helped to expand this collection even further. It helped me to get to know my “woman” better, who she is, what she wants to wear- how many times does she wear a jacket to work? Does she wear a jacket to work? How many times she travels- these are the things that having a real woman working in a creative environment can tell you. So I think that really had a big impact on me. I’m a people person, so that helped me with my people interaction- because you’re isolated alone in your studio. For New York Fashion Week, it’s so hard, because I don’t get it until the pictures come out or the video comes out and I’m like “Oh my gosh, these look good!” . Because what happens when you’re working on a project- you’re so close to it. You see all the details and, you know, I’m still doing all nighters three days before Fashion Week. And so It hit me at the end when the girls are walking down the runway and I see the photos and I’m like “Wow, this was a great collection!” Because sometimes we are so close that we don’t step back to see it. But that’s my favorite part, is to see it at the end when it’s all done, I get to step back and see the collection from an audience perspective. As a designer, I’m always going to think of things I can re-do. Always. So for me, I think that is the best part of the process. When I’m in it, I’m just going 100mph, dressing people, making sure the hair is right, the hat is right, until you step back.
Her Campus: What have you learned from this year’s experience?
Merline: I’m learning more about the business side of things, as a designer. I’m learning about priorities, which things need to get done for the show. I’ve been learning that I do everything backwards. Sometimes I get stuck in just designing, and my assistant is like “We need to book your ticket!” “Where do you want to stay?” “What do you want to do?”. So for me, it’s getting out of the design mode and talking to all my partners- my assistant, the organization I’m working with, my brander to get the look book done. So for me, what I struggle with is getting out of design mode and getting into the business mode, but then getting back in- because you’re constantly doing both at the same time. You need one though, like I need to manage my finances. I can’t just be like “I’m a fashion designer”. So that’s what I’ve learned a lot about, is more of being a business woman. And what it takes to have a label. I do love the fashion shoots, I love making my garment, I love designing my garment, I love when the model puts on my garment and I’m like “Oh my gosh- I did that! That’s so cool!” But I think I’m falling more and more in love with the business side, like wholesale, cost of materials, figuring out the wholesale price, and making sure the price is good for the consumers and the buyers. Because you’re the one who is contacting the buyers to be at the show, which is big, because they are buying your garment. So that was overwhelming in figuring out what comes first, because I think everything comes first.
Her Campus: What were some of your favorite “non school” highlights?
Merline: When I was in school, I did a fashion show outside of SCAD, which was so cool. I owned my own company while I was in school. I’ve just tried to pout myself out there with different projects. And SCAD has it too, they have these amazing opportunities outside of school that you can participate in. And as students, we are so focused on our school work that we don’t always take advantage of those. I’ve always been lucky enough to just say “Oh, I want to go do something outside of school”. I owned a set and costume design company growing up- well, “growing up” in my twenties. I went to architecture school. I got to do set design and costume design for film and stage while I was in school. When I was in SCAD, I just tried to do as much as I could. Those are the things that I did. And I always tell SCAD students, whenever they have a talk, be there. You never know who you are going to hear. You never know if you’re gonna hear something that will change your way of thinking, to influence your direction as an artist. So I always say, every gallery, be there. Every museum- I mean it’s free! Go, be there. Because when you graduate, you don’t have that same opportunity that you do to do all those things. And maybe outside looking in, as an alumni, I wish I had done more. I wish I would have gone to Lacoste, I wish I would have done Hong Kong. I wish I would have done all those competitions. I wish I would have gone to the museum every quarter. And SCAD has galleries throughout the city, I wish I would have done all of those. Like listen, you HAVE to do these things! It’s because we take it for granted that all these things are here. And collaborate with people from different majors! That I would suggest too.
Her Campus: What advice do you have for SCAD students now?
Merline: For seniors, I feel as though they should treat their senior collection as if it were a mass produced garment. Like, if you were to mass produce a garment, where would it be? I think the senior collection should reflect who you are as an artist. It shouldn’t be just for school, go beyond school. Would you sell this garment? Actually go sell it. Like go out and get buyers to buy it. That’s the advice I would have, is to tell my fellow “SCAD-ie” is to go after your dreams. When we are in school, we tend to just limit ourselves to school projects. “Oh I’m just in school”. But while you’re in school, you can do amazing things. SCAD has prepared us to do those. I know that school is a lot to do, I mean, FINALS. But I’m always telling a student “Put together your own fashion show” “Have your own art gallery”. Go and do it! Because we shouldn’t wait until after school to get the experience- you should get the experience in school. That’s the advice I would give- whatever your dream is, do it in school. Don’t wait until after you graduate. Because, as an artist, you’re constantly evolving. You’ll get so many more answers participating in the world. Like, “Let me put myself out as an artist” “Let me go sell my stuff”, you know? I would encourage people to go get it now! Don’t wait until graduation. Go see if you can do it. For example, if you’re a fashion designer, go see if you can sell your stuff to buyers. See if they’ll buy it now.
Throughout my time with Her Campus, this piece has probably been my favorite one to work on because of all of the inspiring words from Merline! It’s crazy to think that just a few years ago, she was walking through the halls of SCAD just like us, and now she’s premiering collections for New York Fashion Week. After speaking with Merline, it’s incredibly evident that she is a stand out designer, not just for her work, but her attitude, heart, and drive. Her words have inspired me to go out and take advantage of all of the amazing opportunities that SCAD has to offer. If you ever happen to see her while she is visiting- go strike up a conversation with her! I promise you won’t regret it.