Baggy clothes and gold jewelry have recently become hot commodities in fashion trends today. This aesthetic did not appear out of thin air, nor was it created by the fashion snobs that make certain styles seem unattainable due to lack of access. No, its foundation lies within the Chicano/a youth of Los Angeles. The rich history of the style is heavily associated with resistance to discrimination. Chicanas have curated a look and style that is so enticing, people outside of our culture have tried to replicate it but could never do it justice. That’s because the creation of the Chicana style was spurred on by the need for a community free of discrimination – where newly formed Mexican American populations could express themselves freely.
This style was developed by the Pachuca’s, who were women that were a part of the zoot suit movement during World War II, wearing feathered hair up-dos, flashy make-up, bold blazers, and knee-length skirts (which was considered rebellious at the time). Because this took place during a prominent political era — anyone who portrayed a non-conformist style was attacked for not exuding hyper-patriotic beliefs. The Pachuca fashion eventually developed into a Chola look during the 1950s-1970s. The term Chola was used to describe the Mexican Americans (Chicanos) affiliated with gangs in Southern California.
My mom, Margarita Policarpo, is no stranger to the culture. Born in 1976, she was able to experience and participate in the emergence of this culture first-hand. She expressed that the identity of a Chicana was not only defined by the clothes one wore but also by the music one listened to.
“That’s how I was introduced to Mary Wells, Brenton Wood, Sun Glows, and more and more by the OG’s, the older Cholas and Cholos. They were an honor to know,” she says.
My mom claims that she took inspiration from the older Chicanas she saw daily and adapted to the culture quickly as it was all she was familiar with and where she felt the most comfortable.
Her style was passed on to me, and now, fashion has become a significant part of my identity. Being able to express and assert my Chicana identity through the clothes I wear makes me feel closer to my heritage. I was gifted my first golden nameplate in 2019 by my mother and it has become a staple piece of jewelry in all of my outfits. Of course, my style is not a complete imitation of the highly regarded style we are familiar with. I have been able to incorporate Chicana fashion into other prominent fashion trends from the 70s to now. Ranging from bootcut jeans, to self-cut Dickies shorts, or even my Doc Martens with maxi skirts to create that 90s grunge look. Although I can stray far from the original Chola look of baggy pants and white tank tops with Nike Cortez’s and bold makeup, I always carry the sense of community and pride with me, which is the ultimate indicator of the Chicana look.