Today was a typical Thursday morning. My alarm went off at 7:55 am, and I hit the snooze button twice. I finally rolled out of my lumpy bed at 8:05 with a resigned heave and sigh. What, might you ask, would spur me to rise and shine at this ungodly hour? Why, beginner’s Czech class twice a week at 8:50 am of course! I don’t want to be overdramatic… but that class is the bane of my existence. At least now when I stumble from my room to the bathroom the sun is already streaming through the windows—two months ago the apartment would have been pitch-black.
Finally dressed and alive with my heavy bag over my shoulder, I grabbed my keys and iPod and traipsed down the three flights of stairs to the entrance to my building. Passing Masala, the incredible Indian restaurant next door, I hastened down the sidewalk, cutting across the street to pass into Folimanka park, a shortcut to the CIEE Study Center in Prague at Vysehrad. Vysehrad was a fortress built in the 10th century in Prague on a hill overlooking the Vltava River, and it is an interesting place to have classes. The stonewalls contain grassy lawns, a basilica, and a cemetery with the remains of Antonín Dvo?ák, a famous Czech composer of the Romantic period.
On my walk over, I caught a tram from Svatoplukova two stops down to Albertov, where I continued on under a bridge of train tracks then up a steep hill. Passing under a huge stone arch, I climbed up more narrow rock steps and then I was within the high walls of the fortress.
Most of the students in my Czech class still looked half-asleep, but a few others were enviably bright-eyed and bushy- tailed. After a painful quiz on prepositions (v, s, do, na, z, bez) and future tense, our teacher Radka announced that today we could go outside and sit in the sun to learn about Czech holidays. From Masopust (Carnival, or literally translated to “good-bye to meat”) to Carodejnice (Witch’s Night) on April 30, spring is full of holidays.
With the dazzling morning sun on my face and the wind whipping my hair and notebook as Radka rattled on, I was transported back in memory to last Saturday afternoon, when I had taken the funicular up Petrin Hill with two friends who were visiting me in Prague for the weekend. Every guidebook I had read had listed Petrin Hill as a must-see, but in my 10 (!) weeks in Prague so far I had never managed to go there. However, I was determined to show my guests a good time, and so after a delicious brunch at Radost (another ‘must-do’ in Prague) and exploration of Old Town, we made our way over to the other side of the river.
After wandering around some forested trails at the top of the immense hill, we finally burst onto a clearing overlooking the edge, which was occupied only by some dude with an accordion and a few dreadlocked guys whom we suspected were LARPing. Studiously ignoring them (even though Laura was trying to snap a picture) we could only gaze at the maze of red rooftops interspersed with twisting spires, and noticeable landmarks like the gold-edged rooftop of the Národní divadlo. I know I said the same thing after my foray into Stromovka park with Eva a few weeks ago, but it was refreshing to be surrounded by greenery and blooming flowers. We made our way over to a grassy lawn and struggled to gain higher ground before settling down to view the city as the sun gradually slipped behind us.
“This would have been a great place to botellón,” Alissa commented ruefully. “Yeah, seriously,” I replied, “everyone else here is way ahead of us.”
It was true, as it was one of the first truly beautiful spring days, and the young Czechs on the hill were already starting their Saturday night carousing. I didn’t mind too much though, we had plans to visit the famous five-story Karlovy Lázne later that night. We remained there on Petrin, leaning back on our hands and gazing down towards the river, until dusk settled.
Just when you’re bored, or worn out, tired, or distracted… Prague will find a way to come out and surprise you.
With love from Praha,
Marina