“I’m looking for unique characteristics in people that aren’t usually highlighted in the world of fashion as it pertains to lingerie, and sexy. What society sees sexy.” -Rihanna
Runway fashion in tradition has made the goal to create and sell a particular fantasy to the audience. The structured silent stoic-ness of gazelle like women floating down the runway has been criticized as creating an ideal that is rather unachievable. Victoria Secret, a brand that was once the premier signifier of womanhood has experienced shocking stock falls, plummeting views of their runway show, and nonstop resignations. The chief marketing director, Ed Razek, was blasted on the headlines in November of 2018 for commenting how Victoria Secret would not be producing shows which casted plus size and transgender models. The New York times quoted Mr. Razek saying, “…It’s like why doesn’t your show do this? Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy…”
Photo by Samir Hussein from Harpers Bazaar
And the Victoria Secret show is very much that. A fantasy. It is a fantasy which was birthed with the creative male mind that was determined to create a form of escapism, and wrap it in the shiny paper of female consumerism. While the pinnacle of womanly lingerie in the past, the New York Times has critiqued the brand for failing to stay on the pulse of its’ consumers, failing to understand that women no longer are determined to fit into the ideal male desired image. As I woman, I find it hard to shop at a store, whose company has made it abundantly clear that my body is not one which it caters its product to. I venture to say that this is an experience that is not singular to me.
So where does Savage x Fenty take us?
Since it’s world debut in 2017, Savage x Fenty by Rihanna has manifested waves throughout the fashion industry, disrupting the traditional narrative in what is good fashion and what is good business practice. This almost renaissance of fashion seemingly came from the most unlikely of places. Where we typically see stars as an uninvolved face of athleisure or sneakers, Rihanna makes it known that the creative process is entirely her own, and it is her hand that weaves together fabric which has rocked the runway into a new dimension.
Amazon Prime recently released behind the scenes footage as well as the full length show of the Savage x Fenty show which recently took place in the last month. From the start of the film you are immediately made aware that this will be no regular show. This is not going to be a show where delicately manufactured women will be gliding down the walk. There will not be a flirtatious glance toward the camera, and a kiss blown to the 13-23 year old boys watching from their computer. The show is meant to show the dynamic nature of both the clothing, and the women who will wear it on stage.
Instead of a straight walkway with lights, Rihanna builds a stage. With multiple levels and windows and stairs. The stage moves and breathes with the people who inhabit it. It carves out space for every body that occupies it and carries lace along with it.
Photo by JP Yim from PopSugar
Instead of a straight walk back and forth, and a singular pose, Rihanna has the entire show choreographed into a breath stealing performance. Where sharp delicate stilettos cannot handle the disruptive dance moves, our models wear sneakers. There is no floating, there is loud debut.
Instead of a coquettish smile to the camera, Rihanna and models command full attention. Where Victoria Secret and its conspirators have designed a model made for the archaic and patriarchal narrative of what sexuality should be like, Savage x Fenty does the direct opposite. Women in the show are in full control of themselves, and there is no semblance of shyness. Rather empowered by the knowledge that they are sexual beings, and they are the center of attention. Savage x Fenty tells us that anyone can be sexy, that their bodies are sexy with or without special clothing.
The scene cuts to Rihanna in the car with a casting director. Glassy nails flip through a stack of glossy photos of women in lingerie. “It is very important. The casting tells the narrative of what the brand stands for, and what we stand for mainly here is inclusivity.”
The term of inclusivity has become a near buzzword in the media. But none more so, and more aggressively advocated for than within the beauty and fashion industry. The thing which struck me the most within the Savage x Fenty show was not the range of styles. Not musical performances of the musical guests. Not even that my favorite musician of my most formative years was showcasing her dynamic talents.
It was the sheer number of bodies.
It wasn’t just that there were so many models wearing Rihanna’s clothes. No one looked the same. Save the 10 or so famous runway models/Instagram influencers everyone knows, the women on stage looked like the women I go to school with. They look like my coworkers and bosses. They look like the women I go to church with. They look like my mom. They look like me.
Photo Allyson Weislogel from Unsplash
Instead of watching the show and instantly becoming all too aware of the rolls on my body, and thinking about the fastest ways to lose weight, I felt normal and in awe of what I was seeing. Watching I felt empowered that I too could wear what was being shown, and look amazing doing wearing it too. Not even for anyone else to see but me and my mirror. Rihanna and her company understand that it isn’t enough just for a company to say that they are inclusive of all body types. They knew that they had to actively search recruit talent to showcase their product. And the result is spectacular.
Now what if this is all a marketing scheme. Say that the company doesn’t actually care about body and ability inclusivity in their marketing campaigns. All this work is just for show. I don’t think it is, but even if, would that even matter given the impact? This company and the show has shown the industry that it is possible to create a market which is inclusive and successful. It has demonstrated that your material can be sexy and appealing while making it accessible to all. And that’s pretty Savage.