Red lips are a stylish and classic choice for almost any occasion nowadays, but this staple cosmetic definitely has carried a wide-ranging variety of different meanings throughout history. In 1700s Britain, women could be tried for witchcraft for wearing red lipstick because the government believed it had the power to seduce men into marriage.
While red lips were bewitching (pun absolutely intended), their popularity really surged in the 1900s and became a distinct part of feminism and a way to explore and express sexuality.
One of the first cases of red lipstick being used by feminists was during the women’s suffrage movement. In 1912, women in New York wore the dark lip color while protesting for the right to vote. The daring use of makeup was to emphasize that women should be able to choose what they look like and who they become.
Lipstick also became more popular when Maurice Levy invented the sliding metal tube in 1915, making it more portable and easily accessible. Silent film stars, such as Clara Bow, also inspired more women to wear red lips. Thanks to the help from Hollywood, the shade became so trendy that Vogue declared it as “the defining item of the 20th century” in 1933.
World War II shifted the view on red lipstick from rebellious to civic duty. This was mostly due to the fact Hitler despised red lipstick and even forbade women around him to wear it. Once this information got to the United States, cosmetic companies started producing politically charged ads urging women to wear red lipstick to help war efforts. Some of these shades included “Fighting Red!” and “Victory Red!” The government even ordered factory dressing rooms be stocked with lipstick because they believed it boosted morale and efficiency.
In 1952, one of most successful cosmetic ad campaigns ran in magazines and changed the way a lot of people viewed red lipstick. The campaign, Revlon’s “Fire & Ice” ads, was a quiz to determine if women were suited to wear the bold lip color. Though many of the questions weren’t exactly what we nowadays would call saucy, (one question asked “Have you ever danced with your shoes off?”) the quiz made women consider their sexuality and if they were daring enough to wear red on their lips. Celebrities, such as Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, also contributed to the popularity, as red lips were a staple in their signature looks.
The 1970’s saw a decline in the popularity of the lipstick. Muted tones were more popular among the hippie crowds and, with the rise of the modern feminist movement, many women saw makeup as a tool of patriarchal oppression. However, disco-era glamour revitalized the shade and made glossed cherry lips the new fad.
Red lips went out of style for a hot sec in the 1980’s as pink tones gained more momentum, but the shade never disappeared and even survived the early 2000’s.
Knowing how far a shade of lip color has come, makes one really appreciate all it’s been through. I don’t know about you folks, but my plans for this weekend now include some bright red lips.