Despite a quiet presence in Paris, the Spring 2021 Haute Couture collections delighted socially distant audiences and attendees who tuned in online. While unsettling times have translated into a more toned-down runway in the past, the prevailing spirit of couture week was a hopeful one and it showed through the creations.
Below, see the best looks of the season.
- Christian Dior
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Inspired by tarot, Dior’s fantastical couture collection brought an aura of chivalry and drama through the use of drapery and gold embroidery. Here, femininity and masculinity are one in the same and each garment appears to have an iridescent glow. Stand out looks included a delicate floor-length cape and gown and perfectly proportioned separates.
- Giambattista Valli
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Ball gown sales have not been hurt by the lack of places to go, not when they’re made by Giambattista Valli. The designer stuck to his heart and focused on creating volume in the magical creations that carry the brand’s business. Through playing with layers of taffeta and 60’s-inspired hair and makeup, the collection makes a statement about the correlation between space and clothing.
- Chanel
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The refined allure of haute couture is done best by the iconic French house. This Parisian collection was unexpectedly bohemian with it’s pastels, flower crowns, and sleeveless tops and pants. The simple silhouettes nodded to borrowing from the wardrobes of lovers and intricate texture was created with hand encrusted lace, blossoms, and beads. Finishing details were not unlike those Chanel herself used in designs in the 20s and 30s.
- Armani Privé
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At Armani, the eternal quest for beauty defined this season’s collection and one glance at the enduring, muted gowns makes it understood. The careful filtering of transparent sheaths mesmerizes the eye while crystals create trim and glisten. Cool colors reflect a sense of renewal and blend with striking klein blue.
- Viktor & Rolf
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Calling it a “couture rave” designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren created a sparkly, ruffly dream that projects positive energy and challenges the idea of what couture can be. With youth and upcycling as the main themes, the collection brought a “made it myself” attitude to the runway with a powerful force. Bra tops and formal skirts were accessorized with bits of jewelry, sweatshirts, and scraps of fabric.
- Fendi
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Kim Jones’s Fendi debut was traditionally couture, showing expression in form and decoration and a new vision for dressmaking. Suits half way to becoming a dress reflected the designer’s personal experience that women want to wear real clothes that fit their body and our current time in androgynous fashion.
- Valentino
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Valentino’s temporal couture demonstrates that quality clothes will long outlive trends. The effortless, narrative-less, collection featured expertly crafted sculptural pieces acting as everyday garments made to be worn however you please. By creating the essence of couture by honoring the process of it, the brand presented couture for the people.
In the year 2021, couture is a dosage of hope and the reassurance that dressing up without an occasion is more than acceptable, we are reminded that fashion is first and foremost meant to be joyful.