The “western embrace” of Middle Eastern traditions translated into high-end fashion was a welcomed attempt to create a more diverse environment in the fashion world, which has often been criticized for being a little flat and “Eurocentric.” But is this endeavour to showcase the history and culture of a civilization just another case of cultural appropriation?
When the Italian designer house Dolce & Gabbana launched its “Hijabi Line,” the beautifully beaded and stunningly intricate work was very impressive. They created beautiful pieces that preserved the modest traditions of the abaya (a black cloak) while still maintaining the designer’s signature look, with its trademark floral aesthetic brought out by daisies, bright yellow tones, and playful patterns. The intersection of these two styles is easily appealing to the worldwide market of faithful abaya wearers and fashionistas.
Some have commented that the launch of this line was long overdue given that the Middle Eastern market is one of the biggest contributors to the fashion economy. Many originating from the region have been shopping at higher end labels like Dolce & Gabbana for years to perfect their updated, traditional look by matching the thousand-year-old black abayas with interesting bags, sunglasses, and dramatic jewelry pieces. The European label’s trademark style has long been complementing abaya outfits as many women use the coveted purses and stylish shoes to complete their look. Overall, this was a very creative and successfully marketed fusion.
Incorporating the elements of their design was tricky, and while some things like the length and the sheerness of the garments may have changed to adhere to the modest traditions of the abayas, they don’t seem to have steered away from the typical route of employing caucasian models. The campaign’s well-intended message seemed to backfire as many news outlets and people on social media found the campaign culturally offensive, paying particular attention to the casting choice. The photo spread seems to echo orientalism, and resounds with the way people appropriate cultures for aesthetic purposes, such as in music festivals or on controversial runways.
Other prominent fashion houses like DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger launched their own Muslim-targeted fashion lines and decided to use models from that part of the world to make the target market feel more included. But Dolce & Gabbana chose a non-Muslim model. While some of the pieces in the campaign are undoubtedly something most women in the Middle East – where this line is mainly being sold – are wearing and will continue to use, there are still some confusing images of the model that don’t connect to the cultural purposes of the abaya. One photo in particular of the model showing off a bare leg under the sheer and lacy abaya was dismissed by many and denounced as appropriative and unacceptable. Certain critics felt that the line was more suited for Western markets as the photo spread’s apparent sexualization of a religious symbol made some Muslims feel excluded.
This is not the first time stylists have been accused of being narrow-sighted, as the fashion industry does seem to have very specific standards especially when it comes to models, like the strict body type standards we see.
Fashion is a unique place where artistry meets business, so although there may have been some aesthetic intent with the recent line in dropping in stores, there are still some clear business motives. This was just as much a good business deal, as Forbes described it, as it was a way to draw inspiration and introduce other traditions to the fashion market. The dual interplay of cutting-edge designs and profit-making is very important here. In short, the clothing line and lookbook was a marketing strategy to bring in more clientele, not to displease a big part of their customer base.
As a successful and long-standing business, Dolce & Gabanna did not wish to be insensitive to its customers and their message in introducing the abaya line is still refreshing and well-intentioned. The execution may have not been as smooth as one would have hoped, but the gesture was still appreciated. Hopefully next time things will be #flawless.
Check out the cute artwork it inspired!
Images obtained from:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BAS1gGclWji/?taken-by=stefanogabbana
https://www.instagram.com/p/BASa47bFWg8/?taken-by=stefanogabbana
https://www.instagram.com/p/BAJ6Qo0lWuk/?taken-by=stefanogabbana
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