My father once asked me, “What’s so special about a cupcake? Isn’t it just a muffin with icing?” Well, technically, yes. However, if done right, I like to think of them as muffins that are consumed by magic. Silly? Perhaps. But there are few things that are better than taking a bite of a sumptuous, moist, and perfectly iced cupcake after a long and terrible week. The playful colors and beautiful presentation can brighten anyone’s day.
Over the past few years, the cupcake business has flourished. Some say its resurgence is due to nostalgic childhood memories, while others believe its popularity to be due to its feature from New York City’s Magnolia Bakery on an episode of Sex and the City. Regardless of how it began, it can be agreed upon that the cupcake trend emerged from a variety of factors notably its ability as an individualized dessert—they are convenient, involve no cutting to be served, and require less hassle than the traditional birthday cake. Unfortunately, as with many trends, quality usually suffers. However, with so many cupcake shops popping up all over the city, being able to spot quality before even taking a bite becomes key.
In order to get a good idea of the quality of a cupcake shop, I prefer to order a box of six. No, I don’t eat the entire box to myself, but I do make sure to take a bite of each one (personally, I prefer to eat cupcakes with a fork as it allows you to get an even bite of icing and cake). No matter how experienced a baker can be, mistakes happen. Taking this into account, one must always be prepared to come across a bad batch every now and then. One way to avoid this, is to opt for six different types—you are less likely to have six bad batches in a row at a good cupcake shop.
While it remains to be seen whether the cupcake craze will continue to thrive, huge turnouts at events like Cupcake Camp seem to indicate that the craze is only just beginning. Cupcakes remain a controversial topic in the foodie world: you either hate ‘em or love ‘em. And while the foodies debate whether the cupcake will remain a staple among desserts, we might as well take advantage and indulge in the treats offered by Montreal vendors all battling for the top spot.
Petits Gateaux
When I read that cupcakes at Petits Gateaux were being compared to the delicious ones at Magnolia Bakery in New York, I was excited. This excitement lasted a whole of one week. As luck would have it, I didn’t have to travel far to try them—they came to me. My friend’s mother just so happened to pick up a box of six ($18.50) as a little treat for us to try. Ultimately, I have nothing good to say about this place. On second thought, I like the logo—it’s cute. That’s about it. The icing to cupcake ratio is ridiculous, and not in a good way. The cakes are dry and plain while the icing is overly sugary and hard. How they continue to receive such glowing reviews is a wonder to me. I highly suggest buying macarons at Point G, just a few blocks away, as it would be a much wiser investment!
Cho’cola Patisserie Bake Shop
Cho’cola, located on Monkland Ave in NDG, is a nut and peanut free bakeshop. Although it is a small shop, it is bright and colorful with friendly and attentive staff. Cho’cola is not strictly a cupcake shop and does offer a variety of other food options such as cakes, chocolates, pastries, and sandwiches. The cupcakes themselves are quite large compared to the ones sold at most cupcake shops—which is great, or so one would believe at first. While Cho’cola does not disappoint in dessert presentation nor in its array of delicious flavors, the cake itself, however, is another matter entirely. Of the box of six cupcakes (they are sold by flavor and range from $2.95 to $3.50 each), every cake was dry and seemed to be a little more than a day old. The icing on the Red Velvet was hard and flavorless. The cream filling from the Boston Cream and Strawberry Shortcake cupcakes was good, but not good enough to distract from the otherwise dry cake. Overall, Cho’cola cupcakes are mediocre at best. The chocolate fudge bars are better than any cupcake I have ever had here. It is a poor excuse for a gourmet cupcake, which is unfortunate as they are one of the rare dessert shops open past 6:00 pm.
Cocoa Locale
Owned and operated by Reema Singh, Cocoa Locale, a charming, unique, and colorful bakery on Avenue du Parc, is a one-woman show. Unlike most bakeries in Montreal, Cocoa Locale is tiny in comparison. It is a single-room with few appliances and an extremely energetic and friendly owner, making it feel like you just stepped into your best friend’s kitchen. There are no additional employees as Singh bakes and sells everything on her own. From the moment you walk into the shop, you feel as if you’ve entered another world. Aside from the blending of delightful aromas from freshly baked goods just out of the oven, one can’t help but notice the eclectic accessories that adorn the shop. From the adorable mini aprons that hang in the window to the antique decorations on the counter, these personal touches give this whimsical little shop character and personality that many other more commercial shops are lacking. Cocoa Locale is primarily known for cakes however, it does offer other options such as cupcakes, cookies, and Cayenne spiced brownies. While the cake varieties change from day to day, the cupcakes are available in only three flavours: Chocolate-Chai, Lemon-Coconut, and Vanilla ($3 per cupcake, $15 for six, and $5 for the larger cupcake to be shared à la deux). The cupcakes are moist and the icing decadent. Slightly larger than most cupcakes in Montreal, they are elegantly decorated with rose petals or lemon/coconut shavings. The simple and fluffy Vanilla cupcake is my favourite. The Lemon-Coconut is good, particularly the lemon flavoured icing—although some may find it a bit too sweet. TheChocolate-Chai cupcake, which is a customer favorite, is surprisingly my least favourite of the three. It does have an interesting blend of spices, which creates a nice dimension of flavour and is unlike anything you have ever tasted before however, it would not be something that I would have often. On a final note, make sure to have plenty of napkins as these cupcakes can be quite messy to eat!
ShiShi Desserts Inc.
ShiShi cupcakes, located on Saint Hubert corner Villeray, was started three years ago by a mother and daughter-in-law duo, Vanessa Saroli and Joanne Marandola. The boutique, although located at a corner, is one of Montreal’s hidden hole-in-walls. Specializing in signature cupcakes, they also offer vegan, diabetic-friendly and gluten/casein free options. I found my way to ShiShi after a glowing recommendation by a co-worker swearing that they were some of the best cupcakes he has ever had. Being a cupcake connoisseur, I just had to try them. I bought six cupcakes ($16) opting for the classic Red Velvet, and other flavors including Banana-Nutella, Panna Cotta, ShiShi Vanilla Cream, Sicilian Lemon and Olive Oil, and Coconut. Unfortunately, I was slightly disappointed. The cakes were dry and clearly over-baked. The icing however, was surprisingly good and not overly sweet as many others tend to be. The cream filling in the ShiShi Vanilla Cream and Panna Cotta cupcakes was delicious! While they still have a long way to go in terms of quality cakes, I believe that ShiShi is well on their way to becoming a strong contender among other cupcake vendors in Montreal. With original flavors such as Chocolate Orange Sanguine, Cannoli White Chocolate, Beer and Bacon, and Hazelnut and Grappa, I am giving them the benefit of the doubt and hoping that I just went on a bad day. This being said, I look forward to returning to ShiShi in the future and hopefully, being blown away.
Simplement D’Liche Boutique de Cupcakes
Founded by Robert Plante and Ken Lee, Simplement D’Liche is a gem among Saint Denis’ little shops. Despite its simple interior, you are immediately seduced by the wonderful blend of aromas from cupcakes and coffee from the moment you walk in the door. Service is fantastic! It is extremely friendly, attentive, and helpful. As usual, I opted for six regular-sized cupcakes ($18). Sensing hesitation as I was making my last cupcake selection, I was kindly offered a mini-cupcake sample on the house. The cupcakes themselves are good. Presentation is simple yet there is an elegance in its simplicity. The cakes are moist and rich—at times a little too dense. The Triple Chocolate cupcake is delicious, but I must admit that the creamy frosting can be a tad heavy—even for chocolate lovers such as myself. The Red Velvet is good, but nothing to rave about. Personally, I am not a fan of the seasonal Gingerbread cupcake and would advise against this selection. Overall, the cupcakes are good but not great. However, with such dedicated owners, I do believe that they will improve with time and I look forward to returning in the summer to taste the newest seasonal concoctions.
Les Glaceurs
Presently, Les Glaceurs, on Saint Paul Street in the Old Port, is my go-to place for a cupcake-fix (that is, when I am not baking up a storm in my own kitchen). Their cupcakes are always moist and taste freshly baked. While service leaves a bit to be desired—feeling more like a business transaction than a bakery sale—the shop continues to bustle with various clientele each looking for a sugary treat. What Les Glaceurs lacks in service, they make up for in presentation. Each cupcake is served with a healthy amount of icing, topped off with a cute accent. A box of six is generally $16. To date, the two best cupcakes that I have tried are the classic Red Velvet and the Brownie Avalanche—which unfortunately, they do not make as often as they should! The Vanilla and Lemon cupcakes are a little too sweet in my opinion, while the simple chocolate cupcake can be bland at times. The majority of the cupcakes at Les Glaceurs are made with cream cheese icing. Fattening? Yes, and worth every bite! However, it is for this reason that I would not suggest having more than two at a time—unless you wish to enter a sugar-induced coma.
783 Mont-Royal East
(514) 510-5488
www.petitsgateaux.ca/fr/index.php
Cho’cola
5601 Monkland Ave
(514) 485-2652
www.chocolabakeshop.com
Cocoa Locale
4807 Avenue du Parc
(514) 271-7162
ShiShi Desserts Inc.
7700 Saint Hubert (coin Villeray)
(514) 439-8388
www.shishimontreal.com
D’Liche Cupcakes
3964A Saint Denis
(514) 500-2505
www.dliche.ca/en
Les Glaceurs
453 Saint Sulpice
(514) 504-1469
and
1245 University
(514) 508-9928
www.lesglaceurs.ca