Do you ever look at the ingredient list on your cleanser and have absolutely no idea what you’re putting on your face? Yes, me too. As a biochemistry major, I’m always interested in learning about the science behind things we encounter in everyday life. I’ve recently been looking into different active ingredients in my skincare products, as it is important to understand which ones will target my concerns most effectively. Below, I’ve included a list of popular skincare ingredients, a short explanation of their functions, and their benefits!
1. Niacinamide
One of the holy grails of skincare ingredients—and one of my personal favorites—is niacinamide, which is a water-soluble form of Vitamin B3 and an antioxidant. It is included in so many products for its amazing benefits for oily and acne-prone skin. Some of the niacinamide’s positive effects include minimizing redness and blotchiness, minimizing pore appearance, regulating oil, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving uneven skin tone. Niacinamide can be combined with many other types of active ingredients (however, some dermatologists recommend to avoid combining it with Vitamin C treatments), making it easy to incorporate into your routine. A popular (and affordable!) serum is The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% ($5.90), or if you are looking for a moisturizer with this ingredient, try the CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM ($15.99).
2. Acids
Yes, you heard me right—acids. In many at-home skincare treatments, companies will formulate products with two main types of acidic active ingredients: Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). Some of the most popular types of AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid, while the most common BHA is salicylic acid. AHAs are water-soluble and work by removing the top layer of dead skin cells (a.k.a. exfoliation), allowing for softer and smoother skin. BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning that they can penetrate deep into pores and get rid of excess oil, making them an ideal treatment for acne-prone skin. However, one thing to be aware of is that both of these acids will make your face more vulnerable to sun damage, so make sure to use extra sunscreen! For beginners, The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA ($6.80) or Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution ($8.70) are great starts (make sure to only choose one treatment, as you will irritate your skin with both). In addition, a really popular and well-reviewed product (but on the pricier side) is the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant ($29.50).
Another acid with a different function, hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most well-known skincare ingredients for its powerful hydrating abilities. HA can be naturally found on our skin and is a type of humectant, which is a molecule that can draw in and retain water from the atmosphere. Therefore, this ingredient is a great option for those who have drier skin but is also gentle enough for those who have acne-prone skin. Fun fact: one gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters of water! In addition, it has been found that this ingredient has antioxidant and anti-aging properties due to its ability to help moisturize the skin. Two options for affordable serums are The INKEY List Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum ($7.99) or The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 ($6.80). Or, if you would like to incorporate this ingredient into a face wash, try the CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser ($14.64).
4. Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an ingredient not only found in orange juice but in many types of skincare products as well. This molecule is an antioxidant that, when used as a topical treatment, helps your body repair damaged skin cells. In addition, studies have found that vitamin C can also accelerate the production of collagen (a protein fiber that keeps skin firm), meaning that incorporating this ingredient into your routine can help prevent premature aging of the skin. Finally, it has been found that vitamin C may help brighten dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Therefore, this ingredient has many beneficial properties depending on your skincare concerns. Dermatologists suggest that the best method of treatment is to use a serum with ascorbic acid, which is the most stable form of vitamin C. Unfortunately, these serums tend to be way out of a college student’s budget, so if you are looking to include products with this ingredient, try the Bliss Bright Idea Vitamin C + Tri-Peptide Collagen-Protecting & Brightening Moisturizer ($21.97) or The INKEY List Vitamin C Brightening Cream ($9.99).
The most important step of the skincare regimen is sunscreen! Recently, more companies have been starting to formulate mineral-based sunscreens, which differ from chemical ones. Some of these minerals include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which protect against harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun. A great benefit is that mineral sunscreens are better for people with sensitive skin—they are “physical filters,” meaning that they sit on the surface of the skin rather than being absorbed. In addition, mineral sunscreens are better for the environment, as the active ingredients in chemical sunscreens have been linked to coral reef damage when washed off of swimmers. Therefore, I definitely recommend looking into purchasing a mineral sunscreen! A good option for lighter skin-tones is the CeraVe Hydrating Sunscreen Face Sheer Tint SPF 30 ($15.99) or for those with darker skin-tones, try the First Aid Beauty Weightless Liquid Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 ($34).
As you can see, there are so many different types of active ingredients found in skincare products, and these are just a few of them! It is incredibly important to research which ones are suitable for your skin type and target your main concerns (such as acne, dryness, hyperpigmentation, etc.). In addition, it is important to remember that the same product can work for your friend, but may not work for you—everyone is different! Happy skincare!