As a native New Yorker (that is, a Long Islander for all you die-hard Manhattanites) who has never before travelled down South, I was eager to start my spring break off in a warmer climate. The shock that came with stepping off the plane into the open air and experiencing above-freezing temps was rather overwhelming. I’ve become so accustomed to Gambier’s frigid weather that the shining sun, light breeze, and lack of necessity to always be wearing parka in Charleston rang suspicious to me. But to the folks in Charleston, my mother (the best spring break companion) and I were the strange ones. Stepping into our hotel wearing boots, tights, and infinity scarves certainly made us stand out from the other guests and native Charlestonians who were clad in ballet flats, brightly colored maxi dresses, and Vera Bradley bags.
While I did feel a little out-of-place in this preppy city, it was mainly because of my mere physical appearance and fashion choices… and, perhaps, my Long Island accent. The excessive use of the conjunction “y’all” becomes a dead give-away that I was exploring previously unchartered terrain.
Despite the city’s characteristics that make it distinctly southern, Charleston today is no longer your grandmother’s Charleston. It is an up-and-coming neighborhood, reminiscent of a hip Brooklyn town or what I imagine a tourist-ridden Latin American city would look like. While Southern staples remain, local favorite restaurants now include a variety of ethnic choices including Lebanese (Leyla), Vietnamese (CO), and Mexican (Moe’s . . . just kidding! But really there is a Moe’s for those with less adventurous taste buds). The phantasm of southern hospitality’s prevalence is also dwindling. While everyone I encountered was amicable enough, levels of friendliness were no greater than in my own northern hometown. This could be a result of the city’s residents – a younger, more hip generation not tied down to traditions promoting illusions of southern charm or hospitality like their older counterparts.
One southern stereotype that holds true is an abundance of sweets, namely pralines and bear claws, which can be found in every sweet shop. Each shop also offers free samples of pralines– all deemed “world famous” or “the best” in Charleston. One day of our vacation, my mother and I were offered samples on five different occasions!
To avoid beef with southerners, fellow Her Campus Kenyon writer Annie Sheslow recommended that I not bring up American history. While I managed to suppress my inner-history buff during my vacation, certain peculiarities did not escape me. Most surprising–or perhaps, illuminative would be a more apt choice of words–was that certain shops and homes proudly flew a Confederate flag beside the American flag.
Despite Charleston’s few idiosyncrasies, many of which one may argue add more character to a slowly gentrifying and commercializing city, it is a wonderful vacation destination and definitely worth a visit. To help you plan your (potential) trip, I’ve compiled a rough itinerary of mine, complete with a quick review of each attraction.
*Note: I’ve only included my favorite spots, and there are no wholly-negative reviews here (namely, because I didn’t have any). Be sure to do research before your trip to ensure a smooth-running vacation. I’ve found that this itinerary is a fool-proof plan:
1. Where I Stayed: Zero GeorgeZero George features eighteen studios and suites built circa 1804. The buildings encircle a garden/patio space complete with outdoor dining, elegant fountains, and copious amounts of fauna. The inn heralds, “all guestrooms feature original architectural elements including heart pine floors, high ceilings, period millwork details, and classic piazzas.” The scenery is truly breathtaking and if you don’t mind a soundtrack of Michael Bublé and Jack Johnson (which plays non-stop in the lobby and dining rooms), there is plenty more to enjoy. Free wine and made-to-order cheese boards are served during happy hour (5-6 everyday), cooking classes are offered Wednesday evenings, and a renowned café are among the many perks.
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2. Where I Ate: Butcher & Bee, LeylaIf there is one thing Charleston does not lack, it is amazing restaurants. My two favorites would be Butcher & Bee – a sandwich shop that uses fresh, local ingredients – and Leyla, which features fine, authentic Lebanese cuisine. Butcher & Bee’s menu changes periodically, but if you are lucky enough to be there when they have the sweet potato bahn-mi or the fried chicken sandwich, they are must-haves. At Leyla, I would suggest sampling the many different options and sticking with mezzas (aka appetizers). The hummus, falafel, chicken wings, and arugula salad are my top picks.
Where I Shopped: Warren on King, The Impeccable Pig Both Warren on King and The Impeccable Pig offer great shopping, assuming you don’t mind the preppy twinge that dominates much of the Charleston fashion scene.
What I Did: Walked the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge (aka the New Cooper River Bridge)The bridge is well known throughout Charleston for its iconic “double triangle” feature. It crosses the Cooper River, connecting Charleston and Mount Pleasant. Walking (or bike-riding) over this bridge is a round-trip 5-mile trek. I suggest riding bikes to make the journey go a bit faster.
You may be asking: What do I get out of walking across this bridge? Well, with a main span of 1,546 feet, it is the third longest among cable-stayed bridges in the Western Hemisphere. It may not be Mount Everest, but not many people can say they’ve walked across the third longest cable-stayed bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Also you’ll have a great view of the surrounding land and water. And for those who are afraid of heights, the bridge feels sturdy, secure, and safe so that should ease any qualms.
Where I Visited: Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, College of Charleston School of the Arts, Rainbow RowI’m more of a gallery-goer than a museum-goer, mostly because galleries are (typically) free and smaller-scale – you can leave whenever you want and don’t feel obligated to linger because you’ve spent a hefty amount of money on admission.
The Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, however, does have a more museum-like atmosphere than the numerous galleries you can find on the main street (the Institute actually refers to itself as a “non-collecting museum”). When I visited, the Institute was featuring two artists’ displays, as well as student work.
Rainbow Row (which I originally figured was an LGBTQ activist project) is, in actuality, a series of thirteen colorful historic homes and a popular tourist site. Post-Civil War, this area devolved into near slum conditions. In the 1920s, Susan Pringle Frost, the founder of the Preservation Society of Charleston, bought six of the buildings, but lacked the money to restore them immediately. The trend of painting the houses in their now infamous pastel color scheme began in 1931 with Dorothy Haskell Porcher Legge. She purchased a section of these houses and began to renovate them. She decided to paint the homes pink inspired by a colonial Caribbean color scheme. Future owners followed her initiative, creating the “rainbow” of pastel colors we see today.
Charleston was voted the Top City in the USA and Canada by Travel + Leisure magazine; this marks the third year that Charleston was named the top U.S. travel destination which is not surprising considering it is a mecca for vacationers looking to find a balance of high and low culture. Frank Fredericks, Managing Director of Wild Dunes Resort and Chair of the Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau Board of Governors, says it best: “Visiting the Charleston area is a unique experience for many reasons. In Charleston there is something for everybody, so start packing!
[Photo Sources: Allegra Maldonado]