If one takes a look at the culinary happenings in Germany at the end of September and early October, they will be flooded with pictures of Weißwurst (Bavarian veal sausage) and beer. In other words, the Oktoberfest has opened its gates and welcomes more than six million visitors. However, the German cuisine has more to offer than just beer and sausages. And as the colder season is approaching, I want to give you a small list of some hot German beverages and soups to keep the cold at bay.
Pharisäer
The Pharisäer is most commonly drunk in the region of East-Friesland in the Northern part of Germany. It is a strongly brewed coffee with a generous dash of rum inside, a bit of sugar and whipped cream on top. The legend says that it was invented in the 19th century on one of the North Frisian Islands during the tenure of a highly pious and austere reverend. It was demanded not to consume any form of alcohol in his presence. However, the Nordic Germans did like their alcohol and did not let the ascetic beliefs of the reverend hinder its consumption. Therefore, during one island party (some sources say it was a birthday, others – a christening), they hid the rum in the coffee under a heavy layer of whipped cream to prevent the smell of evaporating alcohol from escaping. This ruse worked quite well, and the feast got livelier by the minute the reverend had drunk the spiced coffee. Outraged, he called out to the festive guests “You Pharisäer!”, which is an outdated and quite antisemitic term for liars. While that term is no longer used, the name for the Friesian drink was born that day.
One may believe this legend or not, but the Friesians certainly take their regional drink quite seriously. Once a guest faulted the Pharisäer he received in a Café, saying that his drink did not contain enough rum to be considered a proper Pharisäer and he, therefore, refused to pay for it. The fight ultimately went to court and, as no surprise to the Nordic Germans, the judge ruled in favor of the guest. Consequently, it has been decided by law: A proper Pharisäer needs to have at least 4 cl of rum – the good one of course.
Glühwein
Some might argue that it is still too early for the season of Glühwein (mulled wine) to start, but as fall has officially begun I do feel it is culturally acceptable to start talking about the deliciousness of a steaming mug of red or white wine. The roots of this hot beverage go back to the old Romans who added herbs and spices to their wine. Throughout the Middle Ages, Glühwein had been regarded as medicine for chest and stomach pains. Today it is unarguably one of the best parts of visiting Christmas Markets.
Finland does have its own Glühwein, called Glögi. The difference to the German version is the added currant juice. I have not tried Glögi yet, but I am excited to do so this winter.
Biersuppe
While soup is technically not a hot beverage it is certainly appropriate for the colder seasons. I have started this article saying that the German cuisine consists of more than just beer and sausages (which is most certainly true), but there is one warm dish based on beer I did not want you to miss: Beer soup. This kind of soup is regarded as one of the oldest European soups (at least according to Wikipedia) and can be found in various writings since the 16th century. Before the prevalence of coffee, the soup was a popular breakfast for both adults and children of all social classes as the beer had been regarded as a healthy and nutritious form of food.
There are different variants of the soup, but the oldest form is made by cooking some hardened bread and brown beer with some caraway seeds until the bread has softened. The brew then needs to be strained before being cooked once more with butter, salt and sugar.
However, there are hundreds of variations both sweet or savory with many recipes available in English as well.
One hot beverage, which should not be disregarded is probably the fieriest one of them all, the Feuerzangenbowle (flaming fire tongs punch). Its season, however, is later in winter and during New Year’s Eve. Should you ever find your way to Germany during winter, I strongly recommend that you try to find one of the burning kettles on the Christmas Markets and taste it. I promise you will not be disappointed.
For the Germans among us, here are some links for more information on the Pharisäer and Glühwein:
https://www.coffeeness.de/pharisaeer/
http://www.faz.net/aktuell/gesellschaft/weinkunde-die-geschichte-des-gluehweins-182899.html