Emily Solley currently studies English Literature at Florida State University. This semester, she’s adventuring abroad to Florence, Italy to study Italian Reading and Conversation, a special topic art history class on the Florentine Renaissance and Comparative Politics: European Union. This column has two purposes. First, to share the opportunity of experiencing a different country with those of you are still in the U.S. (and hopefully convince you to study abroad yourself) and second, to share helpful information with those who are currently studying abroad.
Easter in Italy is an event unlike any other. Few days of the year match its symbolic value, religious import, cultural significance and showmanship. Every Easter in the Piazza Del Duomo, Florentines carry on an ancient tradition called Scoppio del Carro (The Explosion of the Cart). Quite literally, a procession throughout the city follows an elaborate, two-story tall wagon that was built in 1622. A pair of oxen pulls the cart to the Duomo, plodding along with garlands of fresh flowers hung between their horns. The event culminates in the titular explosion – a spectacular fireworks show to conclude the holy day.
Courtesy: Firenze.g
While the celebration in its current form dates back to the 17th century, the legend it springs from is far older. During the First Crusade, armies from Europe marched on Israel in an attempt to liberate the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. As the legend goes, a Florentine named Pazzino was the first to climb the walls of Jerusalem and plant the banner of Catholicism, the papacy and Christianity. His bravery and courage in the face of death earned him a gift of three stone splinters, or flints, of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. But far greater was the gift the Crusaders received from God: when they finally liberated Jerusalem on Black Friday in 1099, they gathered in the Church of the Resurrection to receive “holy fire” and be purified of their sins.
Apparently in memory of this event, the Florentines would light a torch of holy fire with the sparks that emitted from the three flints of the Holy Sepulchre and carry it throughout the city. Eventually, carrying the torch evolved into drawing it around in a cart, and finally to a celebration with fireworks that are sparked by a flying dove.
Courtesy: Urban Post
Nonetheless, the celebration is still steeped in great symbolism and superstition. After the service, a dove (a bird-shaped flare) flies down a cord through the length of the Duomo to the cart. When it reaches the cart, it launches off, lighting the fireworks and then flying backwards with the force of the impact. If the dove returns to the Duomo and the fireworks show is successful, good luck is said to bless the entire city for the rest of the year.
Today, Florentines still carry out the tradition in period garb, meaning if you are on the streets of Florence on Easter, you may catch a glimpse of the mayor wearing a 17th-century costume.
Courtesy: Antico Restaurant
Easter is also notable for its traditional foods. You may find more lamb than usual on restaurant menus, but the true gem of Easter foods are the desserts. In bakeries, you will find a bready cake called Colomba, shaped like a dove, full of fruit, and covered in almonds and a sweet icing. Most Italian families will also have a giant chocolate egg full of surprises to eat after dinner.