Bosnia- Herzegovina (BiH as it is known), lying almost landlocked between Croatia, Montenegro and Serbia with a 12 mile coastline, has often been over shadowed by Croatia as a popular tourist destination. However with its unique beauty, rich history and welcoming culture, Bosnia has the potential to thrive in the tourist industry. This country boasts a huge range of natural wonders from the dramatic mountains and magnificent forests to spectacular rivers carving their way through scenic canyons. Whether you are looking for an adventure or simply a chance to broaden your understanding of a recently war torn country, Bosnia is undeniably the place for you.
Bosnia has been shaped by Byzantine and Ottoman civilizations from the east and the Roman and Austro-Hungarian ones from the west. This has led to a fascinating mixture of European and Near Eastern Culture, boosting its diversity. For example, amongst the beautiful mountain villages, that look so western and alpine, it is not the church bells that ring out across the valleys, but the plaintive call of the imam from the mosques. Perhaps you disregard Bosnia as a tourist destination due to the recent war that devastated the country between 1992 and 1995, fearful of the ‘landmines’ and unresolved disputes between the Bosnian people. However, this is exactly what you will not find. Instead, you will discover an upbeat nature and optimism amongst its people and a willingness to discuss the war, such that you cannot fail to be impressed by the way they have tried so hard to forgive and move on. Bosnia was once famous for its multi cultural tolerance, with Bosnian Muslims, Serbs and Croats living peacefully together before the war and it is to this they seek to return.
The war that raged through Bosnia began in March 1992, when Bosnia became an independent nation, leading to a horrific conflict between the Bosnian Croats and Muslims (who desired independence) and the Serbs, who did not. Shockingly the Bosnian Muslims were seen as an easy target, and the stories that were told on our visit were undoubtedly deeply disturbing. Many of the cities and towns in Bosnia nestle in valleys surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, where the Serbian forces could hide and with deadly mortar fire and snipers, attack the Muslims sheltering below. They showed no mercy, killing women and children indiscriminately as they rushed to get food and water. By the end of the war there were over 97,207 civilian and military casualties, almost wiping out a whole generations of Bosnians, Serbs and Croats. Areas such as Sarajevo (the Capital) experienced ethnic cleansing amongst non-Serbs, but finally after three years of war, a peace agreement was signed.
Bosnia suffered deeply, and whilst there are still numerous signs of shelling and bullets holes in buildings throughout the country, the advances that have been made are astonishing, greatly helped no doubt by the tourist industry. There is certainly so much to do and see there – such endless possibilities that you may be at a loss as where to start. A good place to begin is the city of Sarajevo and to get around, a bicycle is highly recommended, allowing you to experience as much as possible in a short space of time. During the war the airport was of great importance to the Bosnian army, located between the besieged city and its free territory. So in January 1993, in an attempt to bring food to those trapped in the city and escape the sniper bullets that killed so many of those who made the crossing overland, a tunnel was built below the runway. Finally in July 1993, the two sides touched and the tunnel was formed. The Tunnel Museum gives you a fascinating insight into what life was like for those under fire and it is possible to walk through part of the tunnel, helping you understand what a life-line it provided to the besieged.
Moving away from the war-torn city of Sarajevo, the spectacular trek to Lukomir, (Bosnia’s highest village at 1469km), where the kindness and welcoming nature of the locals is outstanding. The trek can lead to the majestic Rakitnica Canyon, but be careful of snakes! It is often recommended to take a guide and of course, this ensures you avoid straying on to any landmines, (though do not let this put you off, as the trails are very carefully mapped out and the mine areas are not nearby).
If you get the chance, one of the highlights of Bosnia is the rafting down the Neretva River. The overwhelming beauty of the scenery is not dissimilar to that in the Lord of the Rings films! The water is so clean and clear you can drink it – not something you would risk doing in most tourist destinations.
Moving further down the south into Herzegovina, you will discover the stunning town of Mostar, offering the chance to visit historic Ottoman houses, mosques and more famously, the stunning old bridge that was the first single arched bridge of its size in Europe. It was destroyed in the recent war but a beautiful replica was completed in 2004. Mostar boasts a young and vibrant atmosphere, where you can cool off from the sweltering heat in the river that meanders through the town and indulge in the interesting Bosnian cuisine. You’ll no doubt be impressed by the local young men showing off their diving skills as they participate in the dangerous but exciting tradition of diving off the old bridge. As the Neretva is very cold, this is a very risky feat and only the most skilled and best trained divers will attempt it.
Bosnia has long been a place that has been over looked by the world due to a lack of understanding, or perhaps even a desire not to understand, preferring to avoid thoughts of its brutal and tragic past. However, to delve into the history and culture of Bosnia is one way of helping the country move forward and rebuild. The gratitude and warm hospitality of the Bosnian people is truly rewarding, considering their past and the abandonment that they experienced by the rest of the world during the war of 1992 to 1995. Therefore, when planning your next holiday or even if you are close by in Croatia, don’t forget Bosnia- its well worth making the effort to travel there. Although not an obvious or usual choice of holiday destination, why not move away from the fashionable and traditional places, and come back from your holiday with a story to tell; it offers the chance to impart your new knowledge and experiences with those who have not yet made the leap towards this fascinating and diverse country.
Photo credits: frozenwintertear.com; travelimg.com; dfid.gov.uk; lonelyplanet.co.uk