Brazil is going through some tough times. There’s a lot of things going on like the growing of the authoritarianism, hate speeches and manifestations of some people demanding the return of the military dictatorship. Especially this year, because of the elections, the scenario of the country is marked by instability. For this reason, it is very important to cultivate the memory, so we don’t repeat the same mistakes from the past.
Image Credit: Susana Terao
The military dictatorship of Brazil occurred between 1964 and 1985. During 21 years, the censorship was predominant. That’s why a lot of people were arrested by the military government. All the torture that occurred those years happened inside organization such as the Deployments of Advisory Operations (DOI) and the Center for Internal Defense Operations (CODI), all in hidden and undeclared ways.
All of that was not enough to the militaries: there was another organization called Department of Political and Social Order (DEOPS), specialized in controlling everything that could represent opposition to the government. It is now known as the most violent political polices focused on filing and on officially declaring political detainees.
In São Paulo, the DEOPS SP was located, until 1983, where now the Memorial Resistance of Sao Paulo was built. Created in 2006, the Memorial is based on three words: control, repression and resistance. At the entrance, there are interactive monitors with the meaning of these words and an archive with photos, documents and historical records.
Image Credit: Susana Terao
In the same room, we can find a model of the building before it has gone through restoration, so it shows how the many detention cells used to be. Now, there is only four left. The walls of this room are also full of timelines form the period of dictatorship in Brazil.
Before the access to the first cell, it is possible to go through the small corridor that was used to sunbathe. The first cell is similar to the first room of the Memorial, with its walls covered by timelines, but this time they are exclusive to the history and to the establishment of the museum.
The next cell is dedicated to honor the deaths of those who were killed on the period of military dictatorship. It’s composed of a video installation project.
Image Credit: Susana Terao
The third cell is a reconstitution of how the life in DEOPS was: it has mattresses on the floor and a lot of writings on the wall. When the Memorial passed by a restoration in the early 90’s, the original writings were missed. So, to remake the walls, former detainees were called to write again on the walls and represent those who aren’t here anymore.
Image Credit: Susana Terao
The fourth and last cell is a really delicate one. There are audios of stories from former detainees, telling the experience of being private from freedom and al the horrible things that used to happen inside the cells and out of them. Elza Lobo, one of the voices from this installation, tells us about the time, next to Christmas, that she ordered a cake and some flowers from her family so she could share with her cell mates. Her mother brought her a red carnation that she distributed to all the cells. This flower had a powerful meaning because it was so special to receive something from the nature, something that could bring the possibility of being out someday.
The old office that was full of an archive from the military dictatorship is also reproduced in the Memorial with pictures, a desk and a drawer that has copies of decrees, inquiries and monitoring processes.
The Memorial has also some exhibitions going on at the Pinacoteca Station, which is located on the same building, but in another floor. The museum also counts with educative visits for schools, a center of research and an intensive course of human rights too (it happens once a year).
It is also the perfect place for reflection. Especially because it focuses on giving voice to the former detainees, so the principal word of the museum is the resistance. One of the goals of the Memorial is to help the country to build a democratic and respectful culture for the human rights.
Image Credit: Susana Terao
You can visit the Memorial Resistance of Sao Paulo at Largo General Osório, 66. It is located next to the Luz subway station. The opening hours are: Wednesdays to Mondays, from 10 AM to 5:30 PM.
Here is the link for the official website of the Memorial Resistance, where you can find more information about it.