Last week, Milan was taken over by the catwalks, showcasing the new trends for Summer 2025. If the Italian fashion scene is any indication, these fresh perspectives are set to dominate the hottest season of the year.
The buzz around town is that the slogan for Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2025 could easily be “expect the unexpected.” Iconic brands, usually known for their well-defined identities, broke free from standardization — and from what’s currently trending on social media—presenting diverse possibilities for people with vastly different styles in the “real world,” not just online.
Perhaps it’s the eccentricity we need right now — and these Italian experiments are definitely set to be the next big thing.
Expect the unexpected
Let’s talk about the return of creases. At Prada, collars were fitted with wire and styled in unconventional ways. Ferragamo embraced the trend with crinkled-texture trench coats. The most intriguing interpretation came from Bottega Veneta, where their typically sharp outfits looked as if they had been left damp in the washing machine for too long. Yet, this disheveled aesthetic worked, coming across as a deliberate statement rather than an oversight.
Each designer had their unique take on this departure from their signature pristine looks. Miuccia Prada described it as embracing “unpredictability as a reflection of human creativity“, while Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo designed his raw finishes to clash with the collection’s clean lines, adding a relaxed vibe inspired by his Caribbean roots.
A nod to the past
This approach was undeniably more captivating than the recycled ideas currently circulating among major brands like Gucci, Moschino, and Versace, which seem stuck in a loop of self-referencing, drawing too much from their own archives rather than seeking new, outward-looking inspiration.
At Moschino, in particular, Adrian Appiolaza’s second collection continued its nostalgic dive into the brand’s past (pearls, slogans, bedsheet prints, bleach-bottle handbags).
A similar retro sentiment emerged at Gucci, where Sabato De Sarno leaned heavily into headscarves and oversized sunglasses—perhaps because every designer feels compelled to channel these elements at least once. Familiar minidresses made from structured raffia embossed with floral patterns appeared alongside abundant bamboo accessories. It seems De Sarno has entered his Tom Ford Gucci era, adding gold accents to sleek jersey dresses.
At Versace, the tension between old and new was palpable, perhaps unintentionally. Donatella Versace revisited her 1997 Versus collection, remembering it as a time of optimism and joy (though memories may vary). Floral prints and squiggly graphics from that post-grunge era returned in shades of tan, yellow, and blue, woven into cropped tops, low-slung skirts, and frayed jeans with sheer pantyhose underneath.
Some patterns even adorned 3D-printed chain mail, mixing nostalgia with modern updates. Looks balanced on perfume-bottle-inspired heels seemed to capture the surreal state of fashion today.
Beauty is in the details
Gucci highlighted bold cat-eye flicks and smoky lids, offset by neutral lips and sleek hair pushed back from the face. Alberta Ferretti took a more minimalist route, with models showcasing 1970s-style tousled, textured hair that paired perfectly with flowing dresses. At Prada, while many models kept it simple with the iconic Prada Lip Balm, some sported deep plum matte lips with a glossy finish, ushering in the black cherry girl look for fall.
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The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocínio.
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