It wouldn’t be Paris Fashion Week without at least one awe-inspiring runway moment that becomes the talk of the fashion world for weeks. This season is no different. From the realism and florals at Loewe to the Renaissance art at Balmain, the spring-summer shows were the chicest of them all. But the one show that has been circulating in the media over the past few days is the Coperni spring collection. The genius couple, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, brought to life a culmination of futuristic minimal glamour, closing with Bella Hadid having a dress spray painted onto her on the runway.
In a Zoom call with Vogue, the creative directors said that the collection was a “celebration of women’s silhouettes from centuries past,” alongside pushing the boundaries of the brand’s famous futuristic chic look. Named Coperni Femme, the collection was an ode to the 2005 collection of the same name, honouring the female silhouette in the past, present and future. The show saw bra cups reinvented as boulder pads and leather military jackets paired with more delicate fabrics such as lace and silk. Another highlight was a cutout mini skirt referencing the sexy red glitch dress from the Matrix.
But let’s talk about the show-stopping details of the collection. A solid gold bag (yes, real, solid gold) took to the floor as a reinvention of the classic swipe bag. Created by goldsmith Gabriele Vene, the bag was melted after the show and protected by an intimidating security detail. The collection also saw glass bags paired with pinstripe vests and cargos, as well as a gown made from over a thousand pieces of glass. Coperni’s Spring collection seamlessly tied together futuristic lemons of womenswear with minimalism and historical pieces of women’s fashion. The structured jackets and durable fabrics contrasting the lace and fringe detailing of flowing gowns mimicking 19th-century bustiers made for a truly incredible show.
The collection closed with Bella Hadid walking onto an underlit platform wearing only her underwear and being spray-painted live with a white substance, the reasoning for which would remain unknown to the audience for the next 5 minutes. Two people spray painted Hadid from mid-calf upwards and when the white liquid came into contact with the air, it transformed into a matte, hard material. What was, a few minutes before, a liquid in a can became a wearable textile. A stylist then cut the bottom of the dress, creating a chic leg slit and pulled the shoulder straps down to create an elegant, alchemistic dress. The perfectly fitted ensemble was the perfect ending to a show that aimed to showcase the future of fashion.