Art is an ever-changing and evolving form of expression. This includes fashion! The clothes on one’s body are how a person expresses themselves without speaking. Before the first introduction, it is possible to know someone from their clothing.
The fabric we put on our bodies is made from decades and generations of designers that dedicated their time and art to furthering fashion. When searching for the most influential designers of all time, a huge majority of them are white. The blatant disregard for the hundreds of black fashion designers that have bent and formed fashion into the art form we know today is disappointing to say the least.
Many black fashion designers are not given credit for their contributions to fashion and fashion history. Listed here are just three black fashion designers that shaped fashion as we know it.
- Stephen Burrows
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Stepehen Burrows received his education from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. His work is inspired by different forms of art like music and dance. He is known for wrap dresses, lettuce edges, red zigzags and color blocking.
He was one of the 5 designers in the 1973 “Battle of Versailles”, a show that raised money for the Palace of Versailles restoration. Each designer submitted 8 pieces to walk the runway. Collectively, the American designers employed 11 black models- an unrivaled number. Although the French designers underestimated their American counterparts, they were the main attraction with their youthful and new approach to fashion.
The 11 African American models to walk the runway were awarded the Huffington Post Game Changer Awards. The recipients include Pat Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, Billie Blair, Jennifer Brice, Alva Chinn, Norma Jean Darden, Charlene Dash, Barbara Jackson, Ramona Saunders and Amina Warsuma. The show has been made into many motion pictures, including one in 2012 and one in 2016.
Burrows transformed fashion in many ways. One of the biggest was his gender-fluid line of clothing in 1969. He believed fashion should be easily wearable, and for that reason his clothing had no buttons or zippers. He chose to use snaps and elastic for ease of wear. Stephen Burrows is the creator of the lettuce edge hem, which is becoming increasingly popular even today.
- Aurora James
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As the Creative Director and founder of Brother Vellies, a luxury accessory brand that aims to keep traditional African means of creation alive, Aurora James is a big name in the fashion industry. Pieces from Brother Vellies are handmade and one-of-a-kind and worn by many celebrities including Meghan Markle, Solange, Rihanna and Beyonce.
James also founded The Fifteen Percent Pledge, which calls on retail companies to save 15% of their shelf space to black-owned businesses. The Pledge was only founded in 2020, but over five billion dollars have been diverted to black business owners. This pledge works to expand the Black-owned businesses into mainstream fashion and day-wear. Many businesses have taken this pledge, including Nordstrom, Sephora, Macy’s, Ulta, Moda Operandi, Vogue, Madewell and Old Navy!
- Victor Glemaud
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In 2006, Victor Glemaud released his line of leisurewear. This line was made for all people of all races, genders and sizes. Victor is famous for comfortable knitwear that can be worn by anyone. His knits are bold, bright and colorful- which is why his recent collection was a shock!
Glemaud has been focused on minimalism recently. His Fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection features mostly monochromatic neutrals with comfortable silhouettes and designs. There were pops of tangerine and warm tones, along with many fur coats. This was controversial, but Glemaud states that fur has been involved in Black historical fashion for a long time, and he doesn’t plan to forget it.
In the front row of his show was his mother and her twin sister from Haiti, which makes sense when he states that the collection was made to celebrate Black women. He chose models that look like his mom to push this theme home.
These designers are not the only Black fashion designers that had a major impact on fashion and history. The conversation should continue with Elizabeth Keckley, Rihanna, Romeo Hunte and Laquan Smith. There are hundreds of Black fashion designers that need to be credited with transforming how the world views fashion.
Black History Month is a great opportunity to share Black creative’s work! While we celebrate the contributions of Black people this month, let us remember that Black history and Black stories are things to be shared year-round.