As New York Fashion Week comes to a close and we move across the pond to London, Paris, and Milan, let’s take a look at what American designers are planning for the upcoming year. Though springtime is probably the last thing on anyone’s mind as we finally move into fall, the fashion world is always two steps ahead of us, and for Spring 2013, we saw a little of everything: from reviving retro classics to blending far-off cultures, here’s a look at some of our favorite shows so far.
At just 28 years old, Alexander Wang has established himself as the bona fide king of New York cool in shockingly little time. This season, he revamped his edgy-urban look to experiment with volume, pulling apart classic sportswear garments for a modern, deconstructed aesthetic. The clinical-chic look was an exciting development for Wang, but the high point of the show was unquestionably the finale, when the lights dimmed and the models’ white clothes actually glowed in the dark. Talk about standing out from the crowd.
Another king of New York fashion himself, Marc Jacobs’ spring collection was a radical about-face from his maximalist, over-the-top fall show (who doesn’t remember those comically large hats?). Jacobs pared down his repertoire, offering up a modern tribute to Andy Warhol’s it-girl Edie Sedgwick, yet managed to pull it off without seeming retro or derivative. With covers of Warhol-approved band the Velvet Underground playing in the background, models walked out in thoroughly unembellished, austerely chic pieces, and stripes galore.
Naming Tumblr as their chief inspiration – what with its random associations and coincidental moments of delight – Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are clearly members of the digital generation. But despite being so well versed in the webs of new media, they proved this season that they’ve definitely grown up. For Spring 2013, they experimented with unconventional techniques that differentiate them from almost any other brand out there right now: photo-printed leather dresses, a bevy of exotic skins, and deconstruction/reconstruction techniques that would make your head spin all comprised their presentation last week.
Rag and Bone
Tomboy-chic masters David Neville and Marcus Wainwright of Rag and Bone redefined yet again the idea of easy but cutting-edge dressing. Between striped, lace-trimmed tap shorts, parachute dresses, and elegantly oversized ensembles, the collection screamed insouciant cool, with a finely tuned motocross influence – moto vests and leather pants, anyone?