When you think of Africa what images come to your mind? Gaunt children with potbellys and wide eyes looking into the camera as a voice narrators how your donation each month can save them from starvation? Half naked women walking for miles on dirt roads carrying water on their heads? Young school boys and men wielding AK-47s terrorizing neighboring villages? The media has portrayed Africa as a homogenous area riddled with poverty, disease and violence. In reality, Africa is a diverse continent made up of 54 countries and has an estimated 3,000 different ethnic groups.
During spring break I traveled with a group of journalism and communications students to Accra, Ghana for for our International Storytelling class. Those ten days opened up my eyes to the beauty of West Africa through food, shopping and interactions with the locals.
Here are a few things to keep in mind if you’re interested in traveling to Ghana.
Food
The food in Ghana is considered spicy for American taste buds but that shouldn’t discourage you from sampling the local cuisine. Never go to a Ghanaian restaurant hungry. Most of the food in the restaurants are made fresh, so it takes at least an hour for them to prepare your food.
It is customary for some dishes to be eaten with your hands. Fufu looks like dough and is eaten with stew or soup. Before enjoying this dish, your server will bring out a finger bowl to wash up with. If you would prefer to not eat with your hands, jollof rice, plantains and any kind of meat are eaten with utensils.
The portions in Ghana are very generous It’s not offensive to your host if you can’t finish your food. However, you should never look at a plate with an expression of disgust. Also, you should never eat with your left hand. The left hand is considered dirty. Don’t use it to shake hands, eat, touch things or handle money.
Gestures
A thumbs up in American culture means good job or congratulations but in Ghana it’s considered rude. Pressing your thumb up and down while having your hand in a fist is the Ghanaian equivalent of giving someone the middle finger. It’s important to always greet someone with a “good morning”, “good afternoon” or “good evening” before having a conversation with them.
To beckon someone, you would raise the palm of your hand toward them, and then fold the fingers down in a scratching motion. For Americans, this looks like a wave but to Ghanaians this means “come here.”
In the streets, you’ll often hear hissing and kissing noises. The hissing sound is used to get someone’s attention but should only be used in certain situations. If you are eating at a restaurant and want to get your server’s attention it is appropriate to hiss at them. Street vendors may hiss at you to try to get your attention and sell you something.
Money
Ghana uses cedis as its currency. One US dollar is equal to four Ghanaian cedis, making everyday items and essentials relatively inexpensive for American travelers. It’s common to see children and adults tapping on car windows asking for money or trying to sell you everything from bottled water and snacks to puppies and jumper cables. Make sure to keep your handbag on the floor or close to your body. Never set it on your lap, making it visible for others to see and providing a temptation for them to reach inside the window and steal it.
Don’t use your credit card unless it’s an absolute emergency. Credit card fraud happens too often. Before arriving to Ghana, make sure to have at the most 100 dollars with you to exchange at a bank. You don’t want to travel with too much money and risk it being stolen. In fact, some airlines like Delta will ask you how much money you’re traveling with before you can board the plane.
Once you land in Accra, there are many reputable banks around that you can use to exchange money. When using the ATM, make sure you contacted your bank back home, telling them you’ll be traveling out of the country and not to put a hold on your credit card. It’s also ideal to be mindful of the exchange rate your bank has. The ATMS in Ghana accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express. Always keep your receipt when using the ATMs just incase something looks suspicious on your credit card bill.
Shopping
Osu, a city in central Accra is known for being a hub of 24 hour activity and excitement. Many of Accra’s best boutiques and shops are in Osu. If you’re interested in high end clothing, visit Christie Brown. Christie Brown is a luxury women’s fashion brand that is self described as neo-African.The brand infuses modernism with traditional African aesthetics.
Kiki Clothing is also a popular Ghanaian based luxury brand. Kiki Clothing features more bright and contemporary prints. There is a store in Accra mall, which is close to the airport. Eco- friendly and fair trade shops are also common in Osu. Trashy bags is a non profit organization that makes recycled bags and gifts from plastic trash.
If you want to put your haggling skills to the test, visit one of the many markets in Accra.
Transportation
Taxi prices in Ghana are not fixed and drivers can easily spot foreigners. Never agree to the amount they tell you. Always try to negotiate for at least 10 cedis lower but be mindful of the distance between point a and point b. Don’t get into a cab until the driver agrees on a price. Nine times out of ten, he’ll give you an outrageously high price once you reach your destination and use the traffic as an excuse.
I once had a driver try to charge me forty cedis (almost ten dollars) for a six minute ride from the Accra mall to the hotel. I was able to bargain with him and get the price down to ten cedis.
If you would rather not go through the hassle of negotiating prices, Ghana has Uber, which is usually cheaper and safer than taking a taxi.
It’s common to find taxis with missing side mirrors and the gear shift tied in place with a rope or old t-shirt. Driving in Accra is a free for all. Ghanaian drivers believe the lines in the road are purely decorative. A two lane road or three lanes in one direction is usually the norm, but drivers manage to cluster together and create four and five lanes. One way signs are completely optional. Drivers believe that if the wrong way is the way they need to go, they shouldn’t let a little sign stop them.
One of my professors and a few of my classmates got into a car accident. The passenger window was gone and the safety glass landed on my professor’s lap. Eeveryone was fine despite that.
The only thing that may be more dangerous than taking in a taxi is riding in a Trotro.
A Trotro is a minibus that is overcrowded with passengers. Christianity is an important part of life for many Ghanaians. You’ll often find scriptures and bible verses written on the back of Trotros. However, the driving of these mini buses is everything but holy.
Trotro drivers are notorious for pulling out in front of taxi drivers without looking.
Health
During my visit in March, the average temperature each day was 90 degrees. Always carry bottled water with you and make sure the cap’s seal has not been broken. Do not, I repeat do not drink the water in Ghana. If you’re at a restaurant, make sure you order a drink with no ice and be sure to brush your teeth with bottled water.
You’ll see some of the locals drinking and selling water bags. I wouldn’t recommend buying a water bag because there’s a chance it is filled with tap water and is being resold. Be careful of mosquitos too.
Whenever you leave your hotel room, always put on insect repellent. if you want something that smells better than OFF! bug spray, you can purchase Medisoft mosquito repellent lotion at Accra mall or a local pharmacy.
Getting a prescription for malaria pills is not a requirement to travel to Ghana but it’s highly recommended. Talk to your doctor at least two months before you leave for your trip. They’ll need time to get your prescription ordered, and you have to start taking your pills two weeks before you leave. Yellow Fever vaccinations are mandatory.
The government of Ghana requires proof of Yellow Fever vaccinations. Once you are vaccinated at your local hospital or travel clinic, you’ll receive a yellow fever card as proof. The Yellow Fever card is good for at least ten years.
Language
Ghana was colonized by the British and the country did not receive its independence until 1957. Today, Ghanians use terms derived from the British. If you’re at a restaurant, ask for a tissue not a napkin. Diapers are called nappies. The trunk of a car is referred to as the boot.
Ghanaians are very polite. It’s customary to use the word “please” or “me pow chow” before a sentence. They also say “hello” as a a way of saying “excuse me” or “may, i have your attention.”
English is the official language in Ghana, but there are many local languages spoken there. Akwaaba is a Fante phrase meaning greetings, and medase means thank you.
Relationships
Ghanaian culture is rooted in respect for elders and patriarchy.
Never call someone that is older than you by their first name, but it’s acceptable to refer to them as sister or brother.
If you want to ask someone their name, you would say “Me pow chow, Whe-fro-a-den?” Please, what is your name? Ghanaian men will have loads of questions for you, including “Will you marry me?”
Ghanaian men love western women. They’ll shower you with compliments calling you beautiful and tell you how they wish they could find a wife like you. It can be uncomfortable at first and perceived as harassment from a western viewpoint, but Ghanaian men are generally respectful and have a high admiration for women.
Ghana is a safe country for women to travel alone to. The people in Ghana are generally friendly and welcoming towards visitors.
Final thoughts
I would highly recommend Accra, Ghana to anyone that is interested in traveling to an Africa. Ghanaians operate on their own time. The pace is much slower and relaxed than life in America. The locals are very friendly and are happy to help.
I could say more about Ghana but I’ll end with the Akan phrase that translates to “When you get there you will know.”