Though this fashion brand is no stranger to making a sartorial scene, Hedi Slimane’s reign over Yves Saint Laurent has attracted some raised eyebrows. Between Slimane’s decision to change the label’s name (Saint Laurent just doesn’t have the same je ne sais quoi as Yves Saint Laurent) and his fiery feud with fashion critic Cathy Horyn, it’s safe to say that these past few months have been more dramatic than a whole season of Homeland. To top the proverbial cake, the Saint Laurent Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear collection was interesting (to say the least).
Say goodbye to Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic “le smoking” tuxedo suit and hello to …grunge. Instead of sophisticated threads, Slimane showcased a collection of youthful, rocker chic pieces. Sounds lovely, right? While some of fashion’s elite applauded the newly appointed designer’s vision and yearning to create something provocative, others were simply not amused:
“In terms of design, the clothes held considerably less value than a box of Saint Laurent labels. Without the label attached to them, Mr. Slimane’s grunge dresses wouldn’t attract interest — because they’re not special. But a box of labels is worth a million,” wrote The New York Times’s Cathy Horyn.
“I feel like he’s playing a huge joke on the entire fashion industry,” said an anonymous editor according to The New York Times.
“The real show is tomorrow at 10:30,” joked yet another anonymous editor according to The New York Times.
Whether you’re craving an Almost Famous moment or not, one thing is for certain: this is not traditional Yves Saint Laurent. From shorter hemlines to loads of skin, it’s no surprise that Slimane is trying to attract a younger audience. “It’s like bad Topshop,” scorned one unidentified onlooker. As much as we wish we could line our wardrobes with luxe brand names, the ugly truth is that most young fashionistas cannot afford Saint Laurent. Plus, rocker chic isn’t unanimously adored look amongst collegiettes. Would you pair glistening tights with plaid? So are we really an appropriate target audience? Of course, some of these pieces are absolutely major. Isn’t that fur jacket absolutely divine? And that plaid mini totally screams “collegiette.”
But the clothes aren’t really the issue in this controversy. As outrageous as it sounds, it’s what the clothes represent. If Saint Laurent had an already grungy aesthetic, the question would be if this collection was a hit or miss. On the contrary, the real dilemma is what to make of this evolution. Though the newsworthy title change was irritating, the fashion house was originally named Saint Laurent Rive Gauche in 1966. Plus, your Yves Saint Laurent goodies are one step closer to being considered vintage–très chic!
Fashion is anything but boring– everyone should take a style risk every now and then. Obviously, the same goes for designers. However, this transformation was anything but graceful. Looking at Slimane’s Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear collection, this controversial lineup feels a little random. Though Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2013 slightly exudes a rocker energy, it’s just all happening too fast! Since this new look is very different from what Yves Saint Laurent had established many moons ago, there’s a chance that a gradual transition would’ve appealed to fashion’s finest. Instead, this collection comes across as disrespectful to the fashion empire’s successful (and highly respected) past.
Yves Saint Laurent once said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal,” but did Slimane live up to this memorable quote? Sound off below!
HCXX
Photo courtesy of Style.com