Thumbnail image via Barely There Beauty.
During the last couple of years, Korean skincare has gotten the good reputation of being the be-all, end-all of skincare. Last year, stress and an underactive thyroid left my skin an acne-riddled mess. I tried every cheap Walgreens product geared towards oily, acne-prone skin, garnering little to no results. After hearing blogger after blogger rave about Korean skincare products, I embarked on a skincare journey that has granted me more results than any other type of Western skincare methods.
Koreans usually follow a complex 10 to 12-step skin care regimen in which each product has to be applied in a particular order, with specific waiting times between products. The regime, however, does not have to be followed through completely; you can either add steps or reduce them according to your individual needs. Initially, this seems like a lot of work, especially for people used to cleansing and dabbing on some moisturizer. I thought so too, but you’ll be surprised how easy it is to get used to after a few days!
The products mentioned in this article can be found anywhere online, from lesser-known websites like Soko Glam, Peach & Lily, RoseRoseShop, and Memebox, to well-loved ones like Amazon and Ebay. As someone who has to suffer through combination skin (bordering on oily) and acne, these products are mostly geared towards people who also share these problems, but there are some (and I will indicate them) that work wonders on any skin type!
1. Oil-based cleanser
One of the most important things to understand about oily or combination skin is that these skin types are sometimes starved for hydration! After a lifetime use of harsh products that strip the skin’s natural oils, sometimes all it needs is a little extra moisture. The Face Shop’s Rice Water Light Cleansing Oil provides that, and also works as a makeup remover, although it can be used on bare skin as a regular cleanser. It successfully removes waterproof makeup and mascara, leaving the skin soft and supple, while gradually lightening dark marks on skin. This product works well on all skin types.
2. Water-based cleanser
Some avoid this step altogether, but others claim it’s important to remove any leftover residue the oil cleanser might’ve left; I agree with the latter. Water-based foam cleansers like Innisfree’s Jeju Volcanic Pore Cleansing Foam cleanse the skin thoroughly without over-drying, and manage to keep oily and combination skin types matte longer.
3. Toner
In Western skincare, toners are used to remove whatever dirt residue may remain after cleansing; however, Koreans use toners to prep the skin for the following products and to adjust the skin’s ph after cleansing. COSRX AHA BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner is one of the best toners on the market for adjusting the skin’s pH and clarifying old acne hyperpigmentation marks. Since it’s moisturizing, it works well with drier skin types.
4. Sheet Masks
This step is entirely optional, though Korean women swear by sheet masks as the best sources of quick skin hydration. Marshalls is now carrying sheet masks by Korean brands like Dr. Jart and Skin Food, so be sure to try them if your skin is in need of a little extra moisture!
5. Exfoliator
While Western skincare relies heavily on surface exfoliation, Korean skincare products tend to use acids like BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid, otherwise known as salicylic acid) and AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids like glycolic, mandelic, and lactic acid). COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid is formulated especially for blackhead-prone areas, but it’s gentle enough to be used all over your skin. However, if used in conjunction with a product containing AHA, you have to wait at least 20 minutes after applying your BHA product (yes, always in that order). Further, exfoliation products should not be used every day, especially if you have sensitive skin. Figure out what works for you, and don’t forget to protect your skin from the sun when using exfoliators!
6. Essence
This step is essential if you have dry skin, because essences provide the initial dose of moisture that dry skin requires. Essences usually treat more than one specific issue at the same time. One of my favorites is Benton’s Snail Bee High Content Essence, which contains 90% snail mucin and bee venom, and is effective for skin hydration, fading acne marks and hyperpigmentation spots. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties to fight acne. Another favorite is MISSHA’s Time Revolution First Treatment Essence, which works in a similar manner; it contains Niacinamide and 80% Yeast Concentrate, both wonderful ingredients for providing moisture and lighting old acne marks. It’s often compared to the more expensive SK-II Facial Treatment Essence that celebrities rave about.
7. Serums/Ampoules
Serums andor Ampoules are highly concentrated versions of essences, usually thicker in consistency. They are directed at specific issues, so you’ll find that they either target hydration, skin brightening, pore shrinking, among other issues individually rather than together like most essences. My favorite serum for lighting post-acne hyperpigmentation is OST Original Pure Vitamin C20 Serum. It has a thin, watery consistency that doesn’t leave behind a sticky residue. Other more affordable (but equally great) products come from the It’s Skin’s Power 10 serum line; some examples are Power 10 Vitamin C Effector, Power 10 B6 (controls sebum production), and Power 10 PO (reduces the appearance of large pores).
8. Eye cream
This is a step I often forget, but it’s one of the most important ones if you want to keep wrinkles at bay. My favorite eye cream is Mizon Snail Repair Eye Cream because of its creamy texture, affordable price, and the very visible effect it has on my eyes. Whenever I forget to use it, my eyes look duller and more tired.
9. Moisturizer
After the essence and serums, my skin is loaded with moisture. I keep it simple with Mizon Snail Recovery Gel Cream as my morning and night moisturizer because the formula is practically weightless, and it doesn’t aggravate my oily skin problem. Not to mention, for only $5, it’s one of the most affordable moisturizers you’ll find on the market!
10. Sunscreen
Korean skincare specialists believe that the best age-defying product is sunscreen. A great sunscreen product is COSRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream SPF 50. It works well under makeup, as it doesn’t leave your skin sticky or greasy; it goes on to provide a surprisingly matte finish. Don’t be afraid to use sunscreen for fear of it ruining your makeup. Korean sunscreen is nothing like western sunscreens!
11. Extras
I felt the need to add this last product, because it has been a skin saver. Mizon Acence Mark-X Blemish After Cream, for only $5-6 dollars, promises to help fade the redness of recent blemishes, and it does that and more. With only 12.5% propolis extract (this is from bees, so avoid if you’re allergic), it has helped me fade even old acne scars, and manages to make my skin look brighter.