So here I am again, a second year Russian and Arabic student from Leeds taking on Fes in Morocco. Originally from Manchester, I’m a long way from home but am absolutely loving it.
I live in the medieval part of Fes with a Moroccan family, who are honestly some of the nicest people I have ever met. I have been here for about a month now, and have just started to find my feet after four weeks of discovering this beautiful old city and its wonderful culture. It’s been a month full of surprises; the first of these happening on a seemingly ordinary coffee trip that I took with my friend Georgina and our honorary brother, Mohamed.
While following Mohamed down the many, many backstreets of the medieval medina, we passed hundreds of tiny stalls piled high with shoes, handbags, food, spices and anything else you could think of! Finally, we reached the doorstep of the Café Barcelona. Mohamed shook the hand of the owner, a good friend of his who welcomed us warmly, and we made our way up the concrete staircase.
We climbed three of these staircases, each one leading us to different atmospheres; the first a dimly lit room where men and women alike enjoyed tea and talked quietly, the second offering up a small group of teenagers gathered around singing happy songs, and the third and final level revealing a circle of hip-hop loving, twenty-somethings sat around smoking and listening to rap.
Somewhat intimidated at first, I was glad to have my friend and big brother with me. He ordered us some Moroccan tea and disappeared for a little while, so we started talking to his friends. In Morocco, if you are a friend, or even a friend of a friend, you are family; everyone welcomes you with warmth and love. We ditched our stranger status almost immediately and joined the brotherly-sisterly vibe.
Mohamed soon returned and told us that some more of his friends were on their way. They arrived with 2 guitars and a drum. While everyone chatted, we sat on the top of the roof, looking out over the ancient city.
Quite out of the blue, it started. A few notes, then a few chords, and then suddenly the whole group was clapping, clicking, humming, singing, chanting, joining in any way that they could, contributing to a wonderful mixture of sound. Music from all over the world in so many different languages; French, Spanish, Arabic, Darija, German and English. Music so beautiful, voices so passionate, people so talented.
I sat there in total awe as the best concert I have ever been unfolded around me. I turned to my brother who looked at me, smiled and simply remarked ‘In Morocco, everyone is a musician’.