If you haven’t heard of J.W. Anderson then you must have being hiding under a rock; hotly tipped as the next Christopher Kane, the menswear turned womenswear designer already has a Topshop collaboration under his belt. Born in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland, the designer originally studied drama in hopes of becoming an actor. After finding a passion for stage costume he switched career paths and decided to study menswear at the London College of fashion, making his debut at London fashion week in 2007.
Following the success of his first menswear collection, for a man whose signature style is summarised in an interview with Vogue as “things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and a woman to a man”, it’s not surprising the Irishman based his first autumn winter women’s 2012 collection on his menswear line. The 27-year-old’s Topshop collaboration was so popular it sold out almost instantly and was promptly brought back with Anderson’s staple pieces re-launched. The collection, designed with his sister in mind, closely echoed his own ready-to-wear label featuring paisley quilted tops, tartan trousers and pinafore dresses. Anderson’s efforts ooze cool. So cool in fact Brit fash-pack members Pixie Geldof, Alexa Chung and Rita Ora have all showcased Anderson’s designs on more than one occasion. So what’s next for a young male designer whose already beaten supermodel icon Kate Moss in the fashion stakes? A second collaboration with Topshop due in early 2013.
Fresh from his Topshop success he’s already knocked out a spring menswear collection and two women’s lines ready for 2013. For his minimalist Resort collection the young designer’s inspiration was “Sunday best” – the girl was prim, proper and reserved. His experiments involving boiled nylon and vinyl-varnished taffeta provided a modern touch to pieces such as his pleated mid-calf length skirt. Anderson gave us feminine silhouettes modernised with subtle, geometric structures in a mix of candy-coloured pinks, electric blues, bold reds and minimalistic grey palettes. Apparent was Anderson’s abstract menswear stamp; loose pinstripe tailored suits, stiff buttoned-up collars and high turtle necks made for an overall compelling and coherent collection.
But don’t be fooled into thinking Anderson merely exhibits aesthetically pleasing garments, Anderson is a designer who does much more. He is dedicated to the pure craft and execution of his designs. For his spring 2013 line he undertook the impossibly hard task of screen-printing cotton sponge made to look like neoprene, printed satin was heat-sealed for a bumpy texture and his cotton shirts were treated with a “chemical puff”. Everything was done by hand. It’s no wonder the designer’s collection was entitled “The Treatment Room” describing the process to Vogue.com as similar to “a lab where problems are worked out and solutions are found”. Bizarrely Anderson’s mechanised method was juxtaposed alongside minuscule printed flowers, flowing skirts and soft pleats. However isn’t that what Anderson stands for, juxtaposition? Sticking to his classic androgynous signature the models bore slicked back boyish hairdos against what he called “hyper-feminine” versions of the male models in his autumn/winter 2012 line. Exaggerated frills were a central motif; asymmetrically applied to shift dresses, deployed onto boyish culottes (yes, Anderson’s bringing back the culottes) and stiff woollen blend skirts. The bandeau was pitted against tailored grey suit-style trousers and sharp masculine lines were intersected with the biggest of bows. Of course the collection wasn’t complete without the classic biker done up J.W style (quilted, of course). And yet despite the immense intricacy, every collection always boils down to practicality. A man after our own hearts – he appeals to the real woman’s wardrobe. His collection focuses on versatile staples and separates as he combines high-street durability with high-end luxury.
J.W. Anderson is a force to be reckoned with – accompanying his seasonal line he’s created a string of eye-catching, mouth-watering accessories. The big frill motif’s belonging to spring 2013’s skirts and dresses were cleverly arranged onto his bags too in geometric, layered, flat styles. Enamel chain-link chokers, crystal clip earrings have all made an appearance in an assortment of shades that take retro pieces into the realms of modernity.
It comes as no surprise to learn that the former visual display assistant for Prada is flying the flag for Britain as a nominee for the International Woolmark Prize. Selected by the British Fashion Council, the award celebrates the use of merino wool and was responsible for catapulting the careers of then emerging designers Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. His youth certainly isn’t something holding him back; his collections are already being snapped up by stores across Europe, America and Asia. By the look of it, Jonathan William Anderson is certainly a name you need to learn.
Photo Sources:
1. J.W. Anderson Resort 2013 Collection (style.com)
2. Alexa Chung wearing J.W. Anderson x Topshop (shefinds.com)
3. J.W. Anderson SS2013 (graziadaily.com)
Quotes: vogue.com